It's impossible not to fall in love with the sparkling scene ahead of you as you drive past Tijuana from Southern California. There's the shimmering Pacific, untamed and a beautiful shade of blue, on your right set against the clearest sky. And on your left is the golden desert, arid and just as wild.
This is the winding road to Ensenada, Mexico. It stretches on for miles and miles, and its centerpiece is the city itself. The Mexican destination is blessed with an idyllic location, picture-perfect weather, and endless fresh seafood. Consequently, it's beloved by travelers from San Diego all the way to Washington State, and has long been a terminus ad quem for weekenders as well as retirees and expats.
See this charming town, experience its top attractions and eat very well with this quick travel guide.
Things to Do in Ensenada
Head South on Mexico 1 past the city then on BC 23 heading west to La Bufadora. The drive is short and scenic, full of roadside eateries, signs for diving tours, and panoramic views of All Saints Bay. People in town may tell you that La Bufadora is not worth a visit. However, the famous marine geyser, which claims to be one of the largest in the world, reaching up to 65 feet in height, is impressive if you have the patience to wait for its fiercest spouts. Along the way is a tourist market full of vendors selling Mexican wares, knickknacks, pastries, seafood dishes and surprisingly tasty piña coladas served in hollowed-out pineapples.
Back in town, skip the touristy restaurants of which the city has a lot. Make a beeline for one of the taco stands in town that make very cheap yet highly addictive battered and deep fried fish or shrimp tacos. Top them with strips of red cabbage, chipotle mayonnaise and salsa, and you're in for a treat. Because what is a visit in Ensenada without indulging in its famous Baja fish tacos? Later, visit another stand and indulge in fish, shrimp or octopus ceviche tostadas, topped with avocado slices, to complete the Baja culinary experience.
Along Ensenada's boardwalk, right in its commercial section, is the city's famous Fish Market. Like La Bufadora, it's a bit touristy. Shops and stalls sell overpriced items while boat operators constantly tout their tours to passing sightseers. But the market itself is a treasure trove of fresh seafood that you'll be hard-pressed to find in most cities. Here, friendly fish vendors sell different types of fish, langosta, octopus and the biggest shrimp you'll ever see. Grab a basket, bring some cash and meander its aisles for the freshest seafood. Later, buy some warm churros, find a spot on the boardwalk and watch the sunset over the marina.
Feasting on seafood, however, isn't the only sea-related experience you can have here. Set along the bay, the waters of Ensenada are perfect for paddleboarding or kayaking, and some oceanfront hotels and resorts offer these water sports, making both very accessible. So during your visit, make sure to do one or, better yet, both. You might just catch glimpses of migrating whales and other marine life. And there's something utterly serene about being out at sea on a paddleboard.
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There's a lot more to see and do in town, but a visit to Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico's most famous wine country, is essential too. Forty-five minutes from the city, this beautiful place is a destination in its own right. Wander up and down its rolling vineyards, visit world-class wineries for wine tastings, and eat at epicurean restaurants. Allot an entire day, but there's still so much to see so you'll probably want to stay an extra day. No need to worry, fantastic boutique hotels are on hand for the night so feel free to extend your stay.
Places to Eat
Enjoy the best battered shrimp tacos in town at Tacos Fenix at the corner of Calle Quinta and Espinoza, or indulge in Baja-style fish tacos at Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix a block away. At the corner of Alvarado and Avenida Adolfo López Mateos in the tourist section is Anthony Bourdain-approved La Guerrerense. Their fish, shrimp and octopus ceviche tostadas, topped with avocado slices and a drizzle of one of their hot sauces, is the only way to go. There are many breakfast places in town, but El Rey Sol is arguably one of the best with their hearty plates of traditional Mexican breakfast and delicious French pastries. And lastly, have coffee at Café Negrita, where you can also purchase coffee beans to take home.
Accommodation
Hotel Coral & Marina's location five minutes shy of the city makes it appealing for travelers who like to be close to the action but prefer a quieter setting. But its other offerings help make it an ideal Ensenada base too: a marina with slips and plenty of space for paddleboarding, spacious rooms with ocean view balconies, two terrific onsite restaurants, three pools and three Jacuzzis, and a gym with locker rooms, showers and saunas.
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