Only a few hours from San Diego and just south of the Mexican border, the "Valle," as locals call it, has become one of the most intriguing, appealing and fastest growing wine regions in North America.
Green valleys, boulder-covered hills, mountain ranges, stunning sunsets and some fine wines make this a perfect weekend destination.
The valley's varied terroir-with its Mediterranean climate of warm days, cool nights and close proximity to the sea-make this an idyllic spot to grow grapes. It's renowned as the wine region where winemakers throw out the rule books and blend whatever they want because they can. Couple this with chefs who are creating gourmet magic, and it's no wonder that Baja is blossoming into one of the most spectacular epicurean regions in the world.
Heading south on a scenic coastal drive, we pass the arid desert landscape leading to areas of rocky cliffs overlooking the dark blue Pacific with alluring, Mediterranean-like views before arriving in the port city of Ensenada. After wandering the breezy waterfront and perusing our way through a colorful, music-laden street fair, we head to Sabina Bandera's La Guerrerense's famous food cart.
Heralded as the Queen of Mexican Street Food, Bandera has operated her food cart in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico for the past fifty years. Celebrities, internationally known chefs, frequent visitors and locals all know her well; They've enjoyed her tasty culinary treasures and colorful salsas on the Baja food scene for as long as they can remember.
Famed American chef, Anthony Bourdain, is one of Bandera's biggest fans. His immensely popular Travel Channel show No Reservations showcases the best culinary cuisines of the world, and it was no surprise that Sabina was deservedly featured in his Baja episode.
Her Ceviches de Caracol (sea snail) and Campechana (tuna ceviche with shrimp, octopus, snail, mussels and clams) were unbelievably delectable. A drive down from San Diego is worth it for this amazing food cart alone!
This year, Sabrina added a full-service restaurant, much to the delight of her many ardent patrons.
A mere 15-minute drive from the Pacific Coast takes us inland to the dry, warm and sunny Valle de Guadalupe where pastoral patches of vineyards and orchards dot the landscape. Signs on the Ruta del Vino (Route of the Vine) are not always clear, but it's all part of the area's rustic charm. Hidden haciendas, open lavender fields and bougainvillea-draped hillsides contrast sharply with established (and built-up) wine growing regions like California's crowded Napa Valley.
With its glowing reputation and a bunch of new wineries cropping up every year, it's somewhat surprising this area is still relatively unknown to many.
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A bumpy dirt road leads to the strikingly beautiful Adobe Guadalupe Vineyard and Inn. We pass acres of verdant grapevines and stables housing owner Tru Miller's beloved Azteca mares before finally arriving at the entrance of this enchanting inn.
We are instantly awed by Adobe's Persian-inspired architecture, classic beauty and timeless elegance.
Our room, named Rafael, is one of six warmly appointed lodgings at the inn-each named after an Archangel. There are no phones or televisions in the room: The perfect opportunity for unplugging. Each has a back door leading to a quiet shaded portico with a fountain. A refreshing pool on property provides the ideal place to sun, swim and relax.
Strolling through the inn's main piazza, our peaceful silence is broken only by the sounds from a large stone fountain flowing in the center courtyard as we head for the Valle wine tasting.
Providing VIP tastings for its guests, a cool-temperature, high-ceiling domed building also serves as the wine cellar. An overhead artisan-designed wrought iron chandelier from Jalisco is the hallmark of the tasting room.
Adobe's wine experts do a superb job of walking patrons through the winemaking process and vineyard's history. When the massive wooden doors are opened, the stunning views of the vineyard ahead resemble a painted masterpiece.
Winemaker Daniel Lonnberg has garnered high praise for his Archangel wines, well-balanced with carefully selected grapes from Adobe's own vineyards. 9,000 cases of reds and whites are aged in French and American oak barrels in this uniquely designed cellar.
Serafiel, my favorite red, is a more intense 10-month barrel-aged blend with aromas of fruit, chocolate and vanilla. Jardin Romantico, a bright, light-white Chardonnay with tropical fruit undertones and a fresh, crisp taste is aged in stainless steel-a perfect accompaniment to a hot day.
Located off the kitchen is a formal dining room used for luncheons and special events. In our case, that's a five-course dinner paired with wines from the vineyard.
The romantic, dimly-lit room with its round tables, linen tablecloths, flickering candles, china and silver settings felt elegant and refined, yet also warm and welcoming. Each dish was more creative and tantalizing than the last. Servers were more than generous with their wine pours.
The kitchen, with its long rustic table, was beautifully set with fresh flower centerpieces, inviting guests to breakfasts crafted by its talented chefs. Fresh fruit, coffee and freshly-squeezed orange juice followed an authentic Mexican main breakfast entrée. Our Huevos Rancheros (Ranchers Eggs) was made with eggs from the vineyard chickens, accompanied by homemade salsa, fresh guacamole and beans.
The garden adjacent to one of the vineyards grows an abundance of vegetables used by Adobe's chefs. We loved the wooden shoe collection atop a walled bookcase containing cookbooks from all over the world. These shoes and the abundance of blue Delft pottery throughout the Inn proudly attest to Tru Miller's Dutch heritage.
Venturing out into the Valle during the early afternoon, we are drawn to the wafting mouth-watering scent of freshly cooked tortillas, meats and spices emanating from the warm, welcoming restaurant of La Cocina de Doña Esthela.
It's lunchtime, and her rustic restaurant located in the heart of Valle de Guadalupe's wine country is packed with jovial patrons-American and Mexican-anxious to taste yet another of Doña Esthela's magical creations.
We've come to taste her Machaca con Huevos-the dish that won her the "Best Breakfast in the World" award from FoodieHub, the world's largest global network of local food experts. The delicious dried, shredded beef dish is generously spiced with serrano chiles, bell pepper and garlic. Scrambled with fresh eggs from her small farm and served with a rich, peppery side of refried beans, it is unbelievably delicious and available all day long.
We've never tasted anything like it before, and it's not hard to see how the Machaca won this prestigious honor. This coming from true lovers of Mexican food.
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Doña Esthela's cocina remained a sleepy little establishment until 2010 when her food was discovered by the hungry cast and crew of a telenovela (soap opera) filming at the nearby Lomita Winery. Word of her remarkable culinary talents and warm, friendly kitchen traveled fast. In no time, the restaurant was filled with locals and day visitors from other regions of Baja and southern California eager to share in the bounty.
After lunch and with full bellies, we stroll past rows of grapevines to the beautiful Hacienda la Lomita and Winery for a tour and tasting of their fine fruits of the vine.The modern, adobe-like property sits high on a hilltop offering spectacular views of the Valle. Eclectic art fills the walls of its attractive tasting room.
La Lomita is known for its quality, affordable whites, red blends and its oh-so-wonderful Cursi rosé.
This boutique winery's 30-something owner and winemaker, Fernando Perez Castro, says part of the Valle's charm is because this isn't a place where big corporations have imposed a narrative. It's about small families who actually live on the property and love making wines.
Galileo once said, "Wine is sunlight held together by water." This could not be any truer as you visit the Valle. Yes, it's seeing a good deal of growth, but this remarkable and charming region is unequivocally producing some of the best wines and cuisines around.
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