Unless pulling in by boat, you won't know you're arriving at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok until you are already there.
The urban hideaway is exactly that, hidden away between Bangkok's Chao Phraya River and a small alley that would have faded into obscurity had it not been for its renowned resident.
The property-an amalgamation of the modern and the timeless-has long been regarded as one of Bangkok's most stately hotels. The first to lay its foundations on the banks of Bangkok's main artery, it's also one of its most important retreats, a haven for politicians, monarchs, celebrities and authors since it first opened in 1876.
In fact, out of its three sections and more than 300 rooms and suites, it's the Authors' Wing that's the dream. It's home, of course, to the Royal Suite where amenities such as the splendid, purple-trimmed bathroom are obviously made to appeal to monarchs and in which, naturally, many dignitaries have slumbered.
Majesty aside, the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok is hardly unattainable. It's entirely possible for mere mortals to sample its posh lifestyle. And an aptly named Garden Room or Suite in its Garden Wing is more than enough for a luscious taste.
Separated from the main tower (the River Wing) and overlooking a small, palm-tree peppered garden, staying in this wing feels like having your own plantation estate. Its suites are the centerpieces. They are both nostalgic, with colonial-inspired touches, and stylish, thanks to the bright yellows and subdued greens and blues.
The rooms are smart and modern as well, with amenities you would be hard-pressed to find in other urban hotels of its caliber-a breakfast table overlooking the river bank in all its glory, a floor-to-ceiling window with motorized blackout shades and a mini-kitchen stocked with yummy bites and refreshing drinks.
Following an $18 million renovation, it's difficult to imagine this hotel to be more than 140 years old. Still, remnants of its impressive past are evident if you look close enough.
The original brass statues still bedeck the hotel grounds while framed photographs of its most important guests hang on the walls. The bottom floor of the Authors' Wing is an ode to the influential authors who have stayed at the property with lounges that are named after James A. Michener, W. Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad and Noël Coward.
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It's the Authors' Lounge to which I'm most partial. Airy and old-fashioned with a flair for unaffected luxury, this covetable space is excellent for spending quiet afternoons over exquisite tea and unforgettable bites.
There are several elegant options for afternoon tea, but it's the hotel's signature Oriental set, featuring sweet and savory Thai fare, that is most elevating (The Oriental Afternoon Tea Set, $44 per person).
The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok has quite a few other authentic Thai experiences. For a deeper understanding of the fiercely complex Thai cuisine, one simply has to cross the river aboard the hotel's water shuttle and take a cooking class with Chef Narain Kiattiyocharoen (The Oriental Thai Cooking School; classes start at $112 per person). And for a captivating introduction to Thai cuisine and the country's vibrant culture, the prix fixe dinner at Sala Rim Naam offers both traditional Thai dishes and a classical Thai dance performance to curious patrons.
These experiences are just the ticket to channeling your inner Thai, which is an absolute must when you're staying at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok because, while this hotel will never stop pushing the boundaries of modern luxury, it will always have one foot firmly planted in Thailand's magnificent past.
Guest rooms at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok start at $358 for double occupancy. Advance reservations are recommended for the Oriental Thai Cooking School.
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