All photos by Cristina Luisa (unless otherwise noted)
When I was 14 years old, I leafed through an Orangutan Foundation International's pamphlet, marveling at the wondrous red ape that lived in a far-off place called Borneo. I turned to my beige globe, spinning it around until I finally spotted the tiny island southwest of China that was composed of Malaysian and Indonesian territories. Previous to this day, I had no idea that these countries even existed. They were so far from my native United States, it seemed impossible that I could ever reach that part of the world.
That day, I signed up to sponsor an ape for a year through OFI's Foster Parent Program and made a promise to myself. Someway, somehow, I would one day visit Borneo and see these magnificent creatures on their own turf.
Photo via Orangutan Foundation International
Seventeen years later, serendipitously, I found myself on a flight from Taipei, Taiwan, to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I had just finished teaching an English summer program in Taiwan, and was on my way to fulfill my dream. I would be meeting up with The Travel Geek Cyle O'Donnell, photographer and filmmaker, where I would produce and write script for a documentary based in Malaysian Borneo. It was one of the most surreal moments of my life.
When I first arrived in Kuching, Sarawak, I immediately fell in love. It was, after all, the city of cats. The weather was hot, the people were friendly, and there was plenty of exploration to be done.
See, I initially wanted to see Borneo because of the orangutan, which means "man of the jungle" in Malay. However, there was so much more that this oasis offered that I had yet to discover. For those unfamiliar with this semi-autonomous region, it possesses some of the most exceptional biodiversity on earth.
Its mind-blowing landscapes include jutting caves, looming mountains, dense forests, rushing rivers, pristine beaches, and dazzling waterfalls. The array of flora and fauna is just too plentiful to even begin to list. If you love nature, you will find your paradise in Borneo.
Sarawak
Semenggoh Nature Reserve
I arrived at the Semenggoh Nature Reserve around 8:30 a.m. to watch the orangutans feed at 9 a.m. The guide warned us that spotting the long, ginger-haired primates was not guaranteed. Anxiously, I walked down a short pathway to an opening in the forest where, sure enough, there was an orangutan feeding on a banana.
I stood on the wooden platform, filming these amazingly graceful, yet powerful creatures. They swung from tree to tree, munching on bananas, playing, and living without a cage in sight. I put the camera down, taking in the scenery with my own eyes. I focused intently on two adult females interacting with a baby; it was a fragile vignette of an endangered species in its own habitat. The juxtaposition of these animals with the lush, green backdrop was a gorgeous vision forever etched in my mind.
Bako National Park
From the boat station near Kuching, the ride to Bako was forty minutes of bliss. With the wind in my face, my hand splashing in the water, I watched the phantasmagoric cloud formations in the powder blue sky. The massive, verdure mountains whirled by, seeming to have been individually sculpted by Salvador Dali.
Upon arrival, we took a look at the map and decided to take the Kecil hiking trail, which would lead us to the beach. We passed the visitor's center, where an overabundance of greedy macaques stood in wait for tourists' food. Once in the dense forest, we filmed and photographed while hiking and climbing boulders. It turned out that the hike was a bit more intense than expected, but I could hear the ocean calling, and it was all too gorgeous of an experience to turn back.
After reaching the beach, soaking in its isolated, ethereal beauty, I set back on the trail, putting one foot in front of the other, remaining as quiet as possible. Suddenly, I saw an orange flash in my peripheral view. Refocusing, I witnessed a family of proboscis monkeys crossing the path not three feet in front of me. Though itching to reach for my camera I made no movement. I didn't want them to see me; I had already been chased down by two macaques earlier in the day, and that was enough of a scare for the day.
The proboscis monkeys reminded me of a cross between a Berenstain Bear and, with their large noses, Cyrano de Bergerac. The tallest stood at about three feet, and I just gaped in wonder. This was my first time ever seeing this incredible creature - no zoo (luckily), no magazine article, no college textbook had ever shown me the beauty that these monkeys possess. It was truly a magical moment.
Niah National Park
The next day, still filled with excitement from my encounters with the orangutans, macaques, and proboscis monkeys, I couldn't wait to further explore what Borneo had to offer. So far, it had been nothing but paradise (with the exception of the ferocious macaques).
So I hopped on a bus headed to Miri, where Niah National Park is located. Nominated a World Heritage Site, the park is one of the largest limestone caves in the world. Not only that, it also contains evidence of human usage dating back to the Neolithic era. In the Painted Cave, there are human paintings from 1,200 years ago. As someone vastly interested in anthropology and archaeology, I couldn't wait to discover the Niah caves.
Unfortunately, I missed the Niah Junction on the bus. It was getting late, but I got on another bus, and finally reached the intersection I was looking for. I hopped in a taxi, and after several hours of trying to find the right path, I arrived in Batu Niah. Recognizing the overarching Chinese temple that would lead me to the park's entrance, I knew I had arrived.
I walked up to the ticket counter, excited to have reached my destination, and asked for a ticket. "We are closing in ten minutes," said the lady working there. My heart sank. The next day we were heading to the capital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Begawan. There was no possible way I could see the park and make it to Brunei the next day.
Other Sites Unseen
We did head out for Brunei the next day, on a schedule that was overly ambitious and, in retrospect, stupidly hurried. The proposed itinerary wouldn't have been possible even if I'd foregone sleep the entire week. See, there is just way too much beauty in Borneo- it's everywhere you turn.
I wanted to go to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Gunung Mulu National Park, where the world's arguably most fascinating caves are located. In this rainforest setting, next to the second highest mountain in Sarawak, Mount Mulu, these limestone caves are the biggest on earth. The national park also possesses 27 species of bats, eight species of hornbills, orangutans, gibbons, rhinoceroses, and sun bears. (Did I mention that I love animals?)
Alas, we went on to Brunei for the day, fortunate to have seen such magnificent beauty in Sarawak. While I admittedly felt a bit cheated, there was still so much natural splendor waiting for me in Sabah that I could hardly complain…
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