A Beginner’s Guide to Cusco: 5 Things to Know

Lima is the capital, but for many people traveling to Peru, Cusco is the destination. A hub for outdoor adventure and Incan history—not to mention a staging area for trips to Machu Picchu, the country’s most famous destination—Cusco is a rich mix of Andean, Peruvian and Spanish cultures. Here’s what you need to know about a first visit to Cusco.

To understand Cusco and its people, you must understand the history.

In this part of the country, the local people identify more as Andean than Peruvian, drawing bloodlines back to indigenous tribes and civilizations. Cusco was the capital of the Incan Empire from the 13th century until the invasion of Francisco Pizarro and the Spanish in the 1530s. Certainly, no one is going to be championing the Spanish in Cusco, who are viewed as conquistadors, having destroyed the Incan Empire.

But, much of what we see today in the Historic District is because of the Spanish, who, having destroyed it, rebuilt Cusco in their own image, with churches replacing temples. Interestingly, the new Spanish construction made use of the original Inca foundations as a base to build upon. Whether this was a sign of respect or simply a matter of convenience is for one to ponder. Many repurposed buildings have turned the old Inca foundations into points of pride, incorporating them into the décor, like the Rumi Bar in the Palacio del Inka Hotel.

The “tourist area” is based around the Plaza de Armas Square.

Within a few blocks’ radii from the Plaza de Armas, one can find all the travel necessities and conveniences one needs, from hostels to 5-star hotels, from tour operator agencies to affordable massage parlors ($10/hour). Shops are a dime a dozen, and you can find both local and foreign food options. It’s the kind of place that, while beautiful and historic, you can’t make it a block before you are approached by a street vendor or massage-parlor employee. This is the reality of tourism in Cusco—and if that sort of thing bothers you, you might want to pack extra patience.

That said, staying within the Plaza de Armas and Historic District area is essentially a must, especially for a first-time visitor. Again, it’s where you’ll find everything, and it’s a good launching point for walks, tours, and excursions (for cheap souvenirs, head to the nearby San Pedro Market). Plus, there is much beauty to be found amongst the crowds and commercialization, like the Church of the Society of Jesus, the Popular Art Museum, the Museo Casa Concha, the PreColombian Art Museum, the Inca Museum and the Santa Teresa Convent, among others.

There are many ruins within and around Cusco to explore.

The Incan Empire may be gone, and the Spanish may have destroyed the bulk of it, but rest assured there are many remains from the former civilization. The crown jewel is Machu Picchu, reached via a three-hour train ride. But there are many ruins much closer to the city that hold historic value. The Saqsaywaman, Qorikancha, Kallachaka, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Pikillacta, and the Q'enco Archaeological Complex are all closer than Machu Picchu, many within the city limits.

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Cusco gives foodies everything they want—and more.

Traditionally, South America isn’t looked upon as a foodie’s destination. In the big scheme of things, that still might be true. But, Cusco is a great example of a South American city that’s far from traditional.

You’ll want to hit a Peruvian corner restaurant or food stalls at the local market to try out some of the delicious Peruvian specialties, like lomo saltado, aji de gallina, ceviche, and, of course, cuy (guinea pig) or alpaca meat. But don’t be afraid to embrace the modern diet in Cusco as well—the city has nice international and progressive offerings in its cuisine, including funky art-based concepts like Fallen Angel and an abundance of vegetarian and vegan options, like Green Point. Be sure to check out the local chocolate shops (there’s one in every neighborhood), and try some Andean coffee.

Art is having a moment in Cusco.

If you’re looking for somewhere to grab that coffee or that chocolate, and you’ve had your fill of Plaza de Armas, check out the neighborhood of San Blas. It seems to be having a moment, a blend of local and foreign tastes, a bohemian vibe with steep cobblestone streets and narrow, half-person sidewalks that weave their way up the hillside through art galleries and coffee shops. There’s a lot of charm, too, in the small sidewalks and steep staircases. Visit some of the older art museums listed above, and then visit San Blas for a modern contrast.