Beijing is probably the best place in Asia, and maybe the world, to witness the collision of an enormous epic past and a colossal future that seems as brash as it is antithetical to the more subtle Chinese past with its different dynastic permutations of style and taste. The Chinese people seem to have invested their identity in both spirits, making them a very interesting people to watch in these thrilling times.

Authorities in Beijing used the 2008 Olympic Games as the event that would debut a new forward-looking vision for the Chinese capital when they defined their goal in presenting a modern world city with authentic Chinese characteristics. It hasn’t all been pretty, as air pollution in the capital has at times literally been crippling.

The sights

Sightseeing, now a dirty word among tourists, is still a must in the city with the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. Most Beijing touring begins in Tiananmen Square, the world's largest public space. The square is sided by two large museums (of history and the revolution), Tiananmen Gate to the north, the Great Hall of the People to the west and to the south, the Tomb of Mao Tze-tung (whose body is on display). Though most Westerners view Tiananmen Square as the scene of the 1989 rebellion, it’s also where Mao proclaimed the birth of the People's Republic in 1949.

With 200,000 square meters of display space, the National Museum in Beijing is the world’s largest museum. Located on Tiananmen Square, the museum just completed a $380 million refurbishment. More than a million cultural relics are displayed over an area equal to the size of 27 football fields. By adding space, the museum’s recent upgrade allowed it to surpass the Louvre in Paris as the world’s largest museum. The museum displays 5,000 years of Chinese cultural history.

Tiananmen Gate leads to the Forbidden City, a 250-acre sanctuary for 333 emperors from 1402 to 1924. Comprised of six palaces, several courts and pavilions, the Forbidden City became the architectural prototype for capitals, like the Vietnamese city of Hue, throughout the Far East.

Hutongs are the alleys where the homes of Forbidden City courtiers and servants were located. After the revolution, those homes were divided up into smaller apartments capable of housing more families. Hutong Tours of the neighborhoods surrounding the Forbidden City have been a staple of Beijing tourism for about 20 years.

These “tri-shaw” tours were designed to give a more intimate glimpse of life in the city. The tour begins with a tri-shaw ride, pedaled by a cyclist driver guide, from the Forbidden City through the Hutongs. Clients are taken inside a home to meet a family.

The Temple of Heavenbuilt in 1420, was the center for ritual in the empire.

The temple, topped by a sloping cone of 50,000 blue-glazed tiles, was constructed without the use of a single nail. This is where the emperors performed the rites that were designed to guarantee healthy crops throughout China.

The Summer Palace spreads around Kunming Lake just north of the city. A marble boat sits on the lake and the Painted Gallery, offers visitors a stroll, often made by the emperors, down a long walkway with eaves painted to depict scenes from various towns and villages throughout China as well as scenes from Chinese literature. A few years ago the Aman at the Summer Palace  opened within the UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Beijing government recently opened the Huanghuacheng and Hefangkou sections of the Great Wall to the public in order to alleviate the hordes of crowds at the popular Mutianyu and Badaling sites in the capital's northern suburbs. On weekends and holidays, the existing four public Great Wall sites often are crammed with tourists. The Simatai section of the Great Wall, about 72 miles from city center, is about three miles long with all together 35 watchtowers.

Shopping

To go to Beijing these days and not go to a shopping mall would be a little like visiting Pamplona and not watching the running of the bulls. It’s been estimated that 15 percent of the world’s luxury goods are now purchased in China. Beijing’s mega shopping palaces, like the Seasons Place Mall, for instance, carry all the familiar names Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, Versace, Juicy Couture, Givenchy and others. Many shopping malls are like icebergs where what is above ground is just the tip. The underground of a mall like the Chinaworld complex makes it possible to spend whole days without seeing the sun.

Sun worshippers can shop outdoors in areas like Silk Alley, an outdoor market with a wide range of bargains.

The Panjiayuan Market is also known for bargain antiques, but watch out for knock-offs. The Liu Li Chang sells arts, crafts and antiques. Qianmen Jie is a historical shopping alley with recently renovated traditional architecture.

Dining

Beijing offers all of the top regional Chinese cuisines from Cantonese to Sichuan. In Hou Hai dozens of food outlets crowd the shores around three lakes serving unusual Chinese dishes. At Mei’s Mansion the atmosphere is dominated by the photographs, furnishings and other artifacts associated with Peking Opera star Mei Lanfang. Le Quai resides in the 200 year old home of a Qing Dynasty noble and serves Chinese dishes with a modern flair.

The favorite venue for the Peking Duck dinner for most tour operators has traditionally been the 800-seat Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant. The restaurant hails back to 1864, when Yang Quanren left his farm in Hebei to sell poultry in Beijing. The restaurant is built in the classic style of Chinese restaurants with a second story built around the atrium. When your duck is done, it is wheeled to you on a cart and carved in front of you. International dining has also strengthened in recent years as several world famous chefs have opened restaurants in Beijing and almost every national cuisine is represented by quality gourmet restaurants.