The Mystical Draw of Riviera Maya

When I asked my husband where he wanted to go for his milestone birthday, he responded, “You know, I’ve always wanted to see Mayan ruins.”

To make his dream a reality, we made plans to visit the Riviera Maya.

Looking back, we could not have made a better choice, as the area is filled with mystic, magic and surprises around every bend.

Located on the Caribbean coastline in the eastern portion of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, the 130-km region stretching between the resort city of Cancun in the north to the Mayan ruins of Tulum in the south, was originally called the Cancun-Tulum corridor. It was given a new and more poetic moniker in 1999—Riviera Maya.

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We arrived by plane and spent our first night in the playground city of Cancun. Refreshed after a late dinner and a good night’s sleep, we picked up our rental car and headed to our “home base,” the Grand Mayan Riviera Maya located near Playa Del Carmen.

The resort had all the amenities we desired—beautifully appointed rooms, luxury pools, swim up bars, white sandy beaches overlooking turquoise waters and a central location for planning our adventures.

Playa Del Carmen—or Playa, as the locals call it—is the geographic center of Riviera Maya. Though no longer the sleepy fishing village of earlier decades, this bustling beach town still retains its laid-back, casual local vibe. Playa Del Carmen hosts an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants and bars. Some featured waterfalls, rope swing seating and a tree house setting where drinks are literally roped up in a bucket.

The town square borders the beachfront, with feet-in-the-sand palapa bars offering great people watching and cold, frosty margaritas.

A short distance along the beach overlooking azure blue water, a fascinating 50-foot bronze Mayan sculptured arch commemorates the end of the namesake calendar. (No, not the end of the world. Instead, it pays homage to the area’s rich Mayan heritage and the beginning of a brand-new era.)   

READ MORE: What to Do When Vacationing at Riviera Maya Resorts

A walking tour of downtown provided more glimpses of Playa’s history and its fascinating Mayan past. In the heart of the town square, framed by palms, sits the picturesque Nuestra Senora del Carmen. This landmark was the town’s original church and offers stunning ocean views. Mayan statues and ceremonial shrines are tucked in alleyways all throughout the historic downtown area.

Our first ruins visit was to explore the intriguing remains of Tulum. Perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, the former walled city was one of the last to be built by the Mayans and its archaeological sites are incredibly intact.

Each Mayan city had a specific purpose, and Tulum was no exception. It was a bustling seaport, trading heavily in turquoise and jade and the only Mayan city on a coast. One of the few fortified sites, Tulum is also one of the best preserved historic coastal sites in all of Mexico.

It is rumored by many to have some of the world’s best magical energy.

Designed by astronomers, the main temple, El Castillo, was built in direct alignment with the summer solstice. Sunrise on this day shines directly through a series of multiple windows in this magnificent structure. An expansive walkway extends out around the ruins while a wooden staircase leads down to a beach for swimming or sunbathing.

Every destination has its surprises, and Riveria Maya was no exception. Following a local’s advice, on our return to Playa Del Carmen, we drove down a long bumpy dirt road to find one of the area’s most beautiful cenotes.

Sacred to the ancient Mayans, cenotes (pronounced sen-o-tays) mean “sacred well” and are geologically rare freshwater sinkholes formed thousands of years ago when limestone ground caved in, thereby creating underwater reservoirs. These cenotes were vital to Mayan society, as they provided a critical source of water during times of drought and were also believed to be secret entrances to the underworld.

Dos Ojos, translated as “Two Eyes,” was one of our favorites. Located on a nature preserve, two cenotes connect into a large cavern and have one of the longest underwater cave systems in the world. The crystal clear, azure water was refreshingly cool and pure, providing a welcome respite from the heat of the day—a perfect setting for cave diving and snorkeling.

Beachside dining could not have been a more exquisite experience than Punta Bonita Restaurante at Rosewood Mayakoba. With grand sweeping views of the Caribbean before us, caressed by warm ocean breezes, the trio of fish and lobster tacos and ceviche was astoundingly fresh and delectable. Everything about this place celebrated the serene natural beauty and cultural uniqueness of the Mexican Riviera.

We wondered how we’d ever top the Mayakoba experience of feet in the sand enjoying a stunning sunset view.

READ MORE: Adult Swim: 10 Grownups-Only Experiences in the Riviera Maya

Then we dined within the candlelight depths of a 10,000-year-old, naturally formed cavern encompassing a grand spectacle of natural formations. The Restaurant Alux (pronounced aloosh), located in the heart of Playa del Carmen, takes its name from the Alux—legendary sprite-like mythical Mayan entities said to appear at night seeking magical places to hide and play.

Surrounded by stalagmites, stalactites and other fascinating rock, the restaurant offers lavish and tantalizing, yet affordable offerings from both the land and sea, with a definite Mayan twist.

Mayan Sacrifice was a tender, savory chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and chaya (known as tree spinach in the Yucatan), wrapped in bacon and accompanied by blackberry and mango sauces. The orange salmon was bathed in a tangy citrus sauce and anise, then grilled to perfection.

The Mayan Riviera is a stretch of immaculate beaches spanning towns between Puerto Morelos and Tulum. Here, white sandy shores reign supreme. While the beaches we ventured to were all superb in their own right, one stood out for its idyllic beauty and ecological significance.

Akumal, meaning “place of turtles” is a natural refuge for sea turtles laying their eggs on Half Moon Bay Beach between the months of May and November. A wide stretch of its stunning beaches encompasses a series of five bays. The protected offshore reefs make the area perfect for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling or diving in its crystalline waters, or exploring its underground rivers. The peaceful beachfront and palapas were perfect for chilling with a cold margarita and Mexican beer after our snorkeling adventure.

Deep within the Yucatan forests and jungles lay mysterious temples and pyramids, remnants of the vast and extensive Mayan civilization. Among the most spectacular of the ancient Mayan centers, Chichén Itzá is the second most visited Mexican archeological site.

The massive, impressive ruins of Chichén Itzá reveal what was once a dazzling ancient city and major metropolis of the Maya empire in Central America from A.D. 750 to 1200.

The stepped pyramids, temples, columned arcades and other stone structures of Chichén Itzá sacred to the Maya are scattered throughout this expansive historic site. The most recognizable and breathtaking structure is the magnificent Temple of Kukulkan, also known as El Castillo. This huge towering stepped pyramid looms over the central plaza and demonstrates the astounding accuracy and importance of Maya astronomy.   

During the spring or autumnal equinox, the play of late afternoon light and shadows creates a moving serpent that slithers down the 365 steps of the temple (built to represent each day of the year) then disappears into the earth. It’s no wonder Chichén Itzá was voted one of the seven new wonders of the world.

What else will we someday learn from these ancient and mysterious Mayans?

Puerto Morelos, the quaint, laid-back fishing village located between Cancun and Playa Del Carmen, is genuine Yucatan. This charming town has only two principal streets and is one of the oldest communities on Mexico's Caribbean coast. Known for its iconic leaning lighthouse, today, Puerto Morales is also home to National Marine Park, part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second largest reef system in the world.  

As the sun set on our last day in Riviera Maya, one thing was clear. We ran out of time before we ran out of things to do.

Riviera Maya provided all the elements of a perfect vacation—an exotic cocktail of relaxation in a beachside hammock, cave diving, archeological explorations and tantalizing cuisine. The people couldn’t have been more friendly, happy and engaging.

We will definitely return. Numerous ecological adventure parks such as Xcaret and Zel-Ha await as does the continued unveiling of the unexpectedly huge Coba Mayan ruins. There are more cenotes to explore and offshore islands just a boat ride away.

Hasta que nos encontremos de nuevo—until we meet again.