Unexpected Treasures on the Road to La Paz

When vacationing in Cabo San Lucas, we like to add a new experience or two to our growing list of adventures. 

This year we decided to include a day trip exploring the fascinating Baja city of La Paz. 

Known as the gateway to the Sea of Cortez, La Paz (literally “The Peace” in Spanish) lies two hours north of Cabo and is Baja peninsula’s largest city.  Its relaxed breezy seaside port inspired John Steinbeck’s novel “The Pearl.”

We always rent a vehicle while in Cabo, but a local highly recommended hiring a tour guide for our new quest. He said with a wink, “you want to see the places most tourists don’t know about—the magical places along the way to your destination.”

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Following his advice, we contacted Luvis Tours. Little did we know what was in store for our 10-hour adventure when Vicente picked us up at our resort.

Though most tours have a planned itinerary, our guide was extremely flexible and asked what we wanted to see.

In lieu of taking the main route, which would be somewhat shorter, Vicente explained he had some surprises in store along the way he thought we’d enjoy. Our first stop was the Tropic of Cancer monument site. So-named because at 23.5° north of the equator, Mexico is one of six world–wide locations the imaginary line runs through.

Our first and perhaps most amazing surprise was located 35 miles to the north, just outside the sleepy Baja town of Santiago. Nestled in lush vegetation, the area appears oddly out of place compared to the dry barren Baja desert landscape we’d been driving through. 

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Climbing a nearby hill, nothing could have prepared us for the stunning view of Santiago. The magnificent body of water is a true “oasis of the desert.” Not some small spring-fed pool shaded by a few date palms, this marvel is an impressively-sized body of azure water dotted with tree-covered islands and surrounded by a spectacular forest of stately palms.

With its lush green plant life, it looked like something straight out of a Jurassic Park film. We half-expected to see a herd of Apatosaurus stretching their long necks to munch on the bountiful vegetation nurtured by the life-giving waters.

Santiago’s magical allure did not end there, for nearby waterfalls and hot springs only 10 minutes from the oasis provided more delightful intrigue to our fascinating journey. All are worthy of a day trip from Cabo in their own right.

Surrounded by orchards of mango, orange and grapefruit, and known for its cheese and agriculture, Santiago also provides a magnificent relic of Baja’s Spanish colonial past: the Mission of Santiago de Los Coras Aiñiní. 

Founded in 1724 by an Italian Jesuit priest, the mission took its name from the Coras, native people of the region. The plain yet stately mission adds a simple, timeless sense of serenity to this quiet picturesque village.

The mission has survived calamities from hurricanes to revolts. Bells ringing from the pink and white church beckoned us to enter its welcoming doors. An original mission bell found in a remote corner of the property now hangs in a glass-enclosed case, a testament to its long and storied history.

Our trek then carried us to the eastern coastal town of Los Barriles, a popular ex-pat retirement community known for its amazing weather, natural beauty, culture and slower pace of life. Los Barriles sports a diverse landscape that is best described as “desert meets the ocean.” Conifer-covered mountains are a backdrop and coastal palms near the sea evoke a feel of peaceful paradise.

The picturesque village of San Bartolo was a perfect refreshment stop. A scenic tropical hamlet, complete with thatched roof homes, the town is located just 10 miles north of Los Barriles. Orchards abound here making this is a great place to buy mangos, avocados and an incredible local treat—fruit filled empanadas.

Once the largest city in the Baja peninsula, El Triunfo was a thriving prosperous silver mining town. The mines shut down in 1926, and though their smoke stacks remain, the miners moved on to other prospects. Today, a large, colorful rust and gold-painted church built in the late 19^th century pays homage to the town’s boomtown past where miners and their families once worshiped. 

Without a doubt, the most incredibly picturesque and secretive of the Baja peninsula beaches has to be stunning Belandra Bay. While only 20 minutes outside the heart of La Paz, it feels a world away.

Surrounded by massive rock formations, Belandra’s waters are pristine, shallow, warm and inviting. Known as the “Laguna de la Colores," its six different colors of blue and turquoise dazzle the eyes.

Thatch-roofed palapas line a spit of sand along the beachline, and the calm waters are ideal for kayaking. A short but fairly steep hike to the top of a hill provides picture-perfect views of the bay and surrounding mountains.

This is breathtaking paradise in its most simple form.

Arriving in La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, it was time for lunch and Vicente knew just the place. We’ve always subscribed to the adage that the locals know best, and this time was no different.

Mariscos El Cayuco just across from the marina is renowned for their margaritas and freshly-caught seafood. We started with a mouth-watering ceviche. Fish tacos are known to be the best in La Paz, and they more than lived up to their reputation here. A strongly fortified margarita on the rocks with a salted rim was a perfect accompaniment.

After lunch, we headed straight to the Malecon, La Paz’ easily walkable palm-fringed oceanfront promenade along the Sea of Cortez. Sixteen sculptures along the way tell the story of La Paz’ abundant fishing heritage and many other gifts from the sea like its treasured pearls.   

A five-block area off the Malecon features charming shops, restaurants, cafes and boutique hotels. A gelato was the perfect refresher for the warm, sunny day as we casually strolled past vendors' tents in the vibrantly-hued outdoor market.

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Colorful paintings on buildings and structures all around town celebrate the abundant sea life in the Baja waters Jacques Cousteau called the “aquarium of the world.”

A visit to Casa del Artesano (house of artisans) was a treat to see the creative and unique handiwork by local crafters using materials like clay, wood and shells from the desert and coastal waters.   

Heading back on the coastal road to Cabo, we couldn’t have been more thrilled with our day trip. La Paz was our destination quest. and it more than delivered. However, it was the journey itself that was the unexpected treasure.

The sun may have set on our day, but, of this we’re certain—we’ll be back.