Living Like A Locavore in Monteregie

Quebec, Canada is filled with striking natural landscapes and old world charm but no place captures the perfect Quebecois blend of earthy beauty and cultural sophistication the way that Monteregie, Quebec does.  

Nicknamed the “Garden of Quebec,” this lovely rural province is covered with vineyards, orchards and small farms that dot the landscape. As the headquarters for the ice wine and cidrerie industries, as well as hosting artesian cheese farms and chocolatiers, Monteregie supplies an up-close and personal look at green living and locavore culture.

Rolling through the hills of Monteregie, the most arresting image that grabbed my attention were the swirling vines that seem to snake over the region’s many hills. Visiting the province’s vineyards is a great way to learn about the unique microclimate and, of course, to sample the wines. I love the traveling wine tasting at Domaine De Lavoie, where a tasty selection of pear, apple and ice wines are served up outside near the vineyards, in the basement near aged oak barrels and inside in the vineyard’s shop

Step into the hottest spot in Quebec at Vignoble du Domaine St. Jacques, where the Richelieu River, St. Lawrence River and Lake Champlain hug the land and provide a few weeks of added heat, creating a climate similar to Burgundy, France. I was intrigued by the web of nets that cover the grapes to protect against blackbirds. I slipped under them for a taste of the Lucy Kuhlman grape, a flavorful hybrid of Merlot, Gold Riesling and Cabernet Franc that’s rarely grown in North America.

As the main region for cider and apple production, a trip through an orchard and a cidrerie should top any Monteregie itinerary. The giant corn mazes at Verger Labonte enchanted me with highly detailed themes and really difficult paths. I found myself lost or facing a dead end several times before I managed to complete the maze. The orchard’s apple muffins, pies and cider are famous throughout the region. Goats, lambs, pigs and cows also share the farm, so be on the lookout for crafty crumb stealers.

Stop by the Cidrerie La Face Cachee de La Pomme  (the hidden side of the apple) for a fascinating tour of the region’s pioneer in ice cider. Just as ice wine grapes are frozen on the vine, I learned that apples (some varieties) are left on the trees until January, after the cold and wind have whipped the insides until all that’s left is nectar. The cidrerie produces 10 varieties of ice cider and the wine tasting session pairs them with firm local cheeses that offset the sweet notes.

For a sampling of artisan cheeses, check out Fromagerie Au Gré des Champs. A rotating array of organic raw milk cheeses are definitely stars of the locavore scene; the cheese maker was the first to produce a certified, organic raw milk cheese in Quebec. But for me, the scene stealers were the milk chocolate-colored Swiss cows.

They say that happy animals produce healthier food, and these cows were so relaxed and sweet-natured that you almost want to hang out with them. The cows eat grass and herbs to produce different flavored cheeses and are allowed to choose where they want to be milked.

Top off your Monteregie getaway with a sweet ending at Chocolaterie Au Domaine des Petits Fruits. If a stroll through the gardens landscaped with a heart-shaped flowerbed and pond isn’t sweet enough, then nibbling hand-dipped Belgian chocolates, homemade blueberry and ground cherry jams and pastries certainly qualifies. I especially enjoyed the spicy cherry spread laced with pepper. The family-owned plantation also features blueberry and ground cherry patches for picking along with a menu of local lunch and brunch dishes.

Monteregie beckons city dwellers to explore its natural garden delights. Being surrounded by nature is an easy relief for non-stop city stressors and there are few pleasures better than sampling food fresh from the earth, like in your personal Québecois garden.