The Wonders of Montreal's Jean Talon Market

Photos by Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

Exploring outdoor markets is not just about shopping for local goods. I love visiting them because they reveal aspects of a destination that you would probably never otherwise see. Local snacks, favorite spices, or unusual produce are all revealed at a local market. Strolling through a destination's markets serves up all sorts of personality and insider viewpoints.

Montreal entices with lots of flavors and dishes, but my most memorable sensory experience was at the legendary Jean Talon Market.

Colorful and lively, and located in the center of Montreal in the landmark Little Italy neighborhood, this is the biggest outdoor market in North America, and the most charming. Opened in 1933, Jean Talon mixes old world character with contemporary style for a shopping experience like no other.

Tackling Jean Talon requires fortification so I headed to a nearby Italian bakery beforehand. The dreamy, creamy cannoli stopped me in my tracks. Mind you, I don't even like cannoli but I felt compelled to buy some and after one fluffy, crispy, nibble, I can say that I do like cannoli. As long as they are fresh and from Montreal's Little Italy.

Although you can skim the market in an hour, it took me two just to explore some of the 300-plus vendors, and that's not including tasting all the samples, which is an important part of the Jean Talon experience. The market is brimming with fresh produce, but I gravitated toward the more typical Quebecois products like the maple syrup lollipops, and locally produced honey in flavors like apple, blueberry, and raspberry.

There are also dozens of restaurants and cafes tucked inside of the vibrant market. You can try everything from slow braised tacos from El Rey del Taco, to a plate of buckwheat crepes stuffed with Gaspé salmon at La Creperie du Marche. It's mostly a cash only market, although some of the specialty stores take credit.

Some zany plants with vase-like petals caught my eye because of prominent signs commanding shoppers not to touch them. Apparently, these plants capture insects with a sticky substance and leave movements and one little tap will stimulate this action. It made me wonder how in the world you are supposed to carry them home. Clearly, Montreal houseplants have a lot more quirkiness than the typical potted ferns.?

The fromagerie, or cheese shop, is a major part of Montreal culture and they are everywhere at Jean Talon. I sampled mustard with wild mushrooms and fresh goat cheese. I topped it off with samples of different varieties of ice wine and then finished with strawberry-cranberry-hibiscus cake.

I left with a feeling of visual and gustatory satisfaction that few shopping excursions can deliver.