Photos by Michelle Rae Uy
Seven different rivers, sort of creamy emerald in color, run past breathtaking green karst peaks through lush farmlands as far as the eye can see. A few motorcyclists and the occasional water buffalo, kept domestic in these parts to help till the rice fields, employ the otherwise quiet rural roads. Warm villagers and their smiling children take the time to look up from their daily tasks to welcome and wave you past in pronounced sincerity.
In this province in Central Vietnam, there's that calming hush, old-world charm and good natured-ness one might expect from the countryside. And yet, being in the midst of it all still feels wonderfully foreign and pleasantly surprising, especially to city folks like me.
This is Quang Binh province. Less than two hours south of Hanoi by plane, it sits in the foothills of the Annamite Range and is undeniably serene. But it is also ruggedly beautiful and has become the terminus of choice for dauntless travelers seeking adventure. Backpackers, outdoorsy types and thrill seekers descend upon this region to immerse themselves in its many thrilling pursuits.
It's all thanks to Phong Nha-Ke Bang, the spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site situated in this province. It's home to the largest, Son Doong, and one of the longest, Phong Nha, cave systems in the world along with 200 plus smaller ones. They're the real crowd drawers in this region.
The centerpiece of the park is Son Doong; but the multi-day guided trek through mountainous jungle terrain to get there requires a certain level of physical strength and agility, and is not for everyone. There are, of course, easier yet equally amazing alternatives, two of which I had the pleasure of visiting during my short time there. One of them is Thien Duong, named Paradise Cave owing to the heavenly cool microclimate refuge it provides from the usually sweltering Vietnam weather-at least according to our local guide.
Its magnificent and towering cave formations are staggering: hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites bedeck this colossal cave from floor to ceiling, as do a few pillars and high arches. It's a truly enchanting scene, the stuff of fairy tales; and visitors can witness it-with or without a tour guide-along a continuous, well-kept wooden bridge running through the first 19 miles to which the public has access.
My personal favorite, however, has to be Hang Toi (Dark Cave). While considerably smaller and less grandiose, this grotto offers a more exciting undertaking. Visitors have a choice of either zip lining or kayaking to its entrance (I chose the zip line) before delving down its muddy, at times narrow and mostly sloshy trail. Not to worry, all tours are guided for obvious safety reasons.
And then there's its promenade. Several food vendors set up shop here at sundown to offer seaside dining or a place for people to have beer with friends. It's a great nighttime spot if you're looking for something low-key for a change. But in my opinion, it's even better at dawn.
Before heading back out, stop here for an awe-inspiring view of the sunrise. There's something about watching the morning sun, which in this part of the world is often always unapologetically bright orange, perfectly round and enormous, paint the sky pink and purple while silhouetting everything else that is just so quintessentially Quang Binh. And frankly, I can't think of a better way to start yet another adventurous day.
As foreigners need to obtain a Vietnamese driver's license to drive in Vietnam and public transportation in the rural areas is few and far between, it is recommended for travelers to make transportation and tour arrangements with a tour company prior to arrival. Oxalis Adventure Tours offer several packages that include round-trip airport transports, accommodations at Chay Lap Farmstay and guided tours. For shorter visits, Phongnha Discovery offers a two-day package that includes transportation, one-night stay at Chay Lap, some meals, and visits to both Paradise and Dark Caves as well as Phong Nha Cave.
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