Rhodes: Mysterious Wonder of the Greek Isles

Photo by Noreen Kompanik

When the ancient people of Rhodes chose Helios, the sun, as their patron God, it must have been puzzling to other Greek cities of the time who’d selected more renowned and superior deities as Athena, Apollo or Zeus. A millennium later, the Rhodians still worship the sun. With almost 300 days of yearly sunshine and low humidity, it’s easy to see why.

The view of this iconic Greek Island from the sea is spectacular as we sailed into Mandraki Harbour, Rhodes main port. Immediately we’re enchanted and intrigued by the medieval nature of the city. Yet there’s no denying its classical heritage, for in this very harbor at the end of 4th century B.C. the 110-foot-high bronzed statue of Helios towered majestically greeting incoming vessels to the port. Known as the Colossus of Rhodes, it straddled the harbor entrance and is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Today, two bronze deer statues mark the spot where legend says the Colossus once stood. Unfortunately, an earthquake razed the city in 227 B.C. toppling the Colossus. There it rested for almost eight centuries, until 654 A.D. when it was carted off to Syria and sold for scrap metal. Thereafter, the famous Colossus disappeared into the annals of history where its legendary legacy lives on. 

As Greece’s fourth largest island, Rhodes sits at the crossroads of ancient western European Greek culture and the Islamic culture of the Middle East. Often referred to as the pearl of the Dodecanese island group, Rhodes is the farthest island from the Greek mainland and surprisingly only 12 miles off the coast of Turkey. Its strategic location on ancient trade routes contributed to its prosperous economy.

Over time, the scars left by its rich and turbulent history have become Rhodes’ treasures. Though invaders like the Hellenistic Greeks, Romans, Crusader Knights, Turks and Italians all brought some destruction, they also left behind fascinating footprints filled with their unique cultural artifacts.

After disembarking the cruise ship in early morning, our first stop was Old Town Rhodes adjoining the waterfront.  The three-mile long medieval walled city comes complete with a double moat, albeit a dry one.  As one of the best preserved medieval towns in the world and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, the town is an impressive maze of 200 streets; many remain cobblestoned, flanked by historic buildings dating from the 14th century with bright pink flowers spilling over their ancient walls.

Our guided walking tour began at The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes, also known as the Kastello, a medieval fortress and one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in Greece. The palace is of enormous in size with 158 rooms, though only 24 are open to the public. Dominating the city and harbor, the castle was built on the highest point of the city and easily seen from miles away. Though it played an active role in the defense of Rhodes, its fairytale towers and crenelated ramparts looks like a setting from HBO’s "Game of Thrones."

The Hospital of Knights, now the city’s Archeological Museum of Rhodes, is filled with incredible finds from the ancient city and nearby islands. In addition to fascinating collections of classical, Hellenistic and Roman sculptures, we loved the colorful mosaic floors and a statue of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love who, while bathing, pushes her hair aside as if she’s listening to a secret conversation.

After a morning in the historic city, we strolled to a quieter part of Rhodes Town for lunch at Kathopoulis, recommended by several gracious and charming locals. Service was friendly and unhurried and the owner made a point to visit every table. Tantalizing aromas wafting through the air made it difficult to select any one entrée. So the owner had the chef prepare a plate of mezethes or small servings – the perfect opportunity to savor the melding of incredible Middle East flavors and delectable Greek delights. We loved the Giaprakia made with stuffed vines leaves with rice and meat and Chtapodi Xithato, marinated octopus with traditional Greek spices, going down easily with a fine local Rhodian white wine.

By now the sun god was luring us to the beach so we took a local bus and met friends at Falaraki Beach, one of Rhodes most popular with its colorful signature striped umbrellas. The beaches of Rhodes are stunningly beautiful and said to be among the cleanest in the Aegean. Depending on the season, we heard the beach can get quite crowded, though during our visit, we were fortunate to have a section practically to ourselves overlooking miles of clear, aquamarine waters accompanied by warm, gentle breezes.

After a quick shower at the Falaraki Beach Hotel, we ventured south to our final Rhodes destination, the ancient city of Lindos. With its whitewashed houses and idyllic scenery, Lindos is a picture-perfect Greek village bordering the Mediterranean Sea. But one incredibly unique feature that stands out is its magnificent intact walled Acropolis with a Temple of Athena dating back to 4th century B.C. Because cruises provide only glimpses of each island visited vice the immersion received from staying in one location, we didn’t spend nearly as much time here as we’d have liked. However, if the introduction intrigues and captivates like it did with us, a return trip is definitely worth it!

Standing along the rail of our ship as we sailed out of the port of Rhodes, we agreed that no other Greek island we’d ever visited could claim Rhodes’ unique mosaic collage- consisting of rich ancient mythological history, untouched natural beauty, colorful traditions, quaint villages dotting crystalline seas, culinary pleasures and a vibrant nightlife to boot. This multifaceted place has stirred romantics for centuries. It’s easy to see why.