Photo courtesy of Thinkstock
We never thought we would find ourselves hiking to the center of an active volcano on the island of Java at two in the morning. But there we were, doing exactly that, along with our tour guide, five Europeans, and a couple of headlamps. We were completely and utterly unprepared for the adventure, which would turn out to be more challenging-and more memorable-than anything we could have imagined.
Photo by Dennis Stauffer via Flickr
Hiking Mt. Ijen - Java, Indonesia
Kawah Ijen Volcano lies in eastern Java. It is one of a series of volcanoes, including Raung, Bromo, Semeru and Merapi. Ijen is famed for having some of the most astonishing views on the island, due in large part to the surrounding volcanoes, as well as the picturesque turquoise lake that lies in the volcano's crater. (This lake is also the largest acidic lake on earth)! Unfortunately, it was too foggy on the day of our hike to see the lake below, but luckily, that wasn't really why we were traipsing down the volcano anyway. No, what we were interested in was a phenomenon much more unique-Mt. Ijen's legendary blue flames.
What are the blue flames?
Photo by Yann Pinczon via Flickr
Essentially, jets of sulfur gas burst out of the volcano; the sulfur then combusts on contact with the air. The result is a stunning fiery blue light that is only visible at night, and only in certain parts of the volcano. The mystical blue glow is both unusual and mesmerizingly beautiful, even if you are fighting off clouds of suffocating volcanic gasses for the sake of witnessing them. The degree to which the blue flames are visible depends on the conditions of the volcano. It's important to choose a knowledgeable guide who will take you into the crater and seek out the lights.
The volcano workers
Photo by Just Call Me Mo via Flickr
As astonishing as the blue flames are, perhaps even more remarkable are the sulfur miners who work inside of the volcano. The work is grueling; it's a job that no one would do for any reason other than income. The miners begin their day at 4 a.m. with the four kilometer hike into the volcano. The miners' job is to then break off sulfur and carry the backbreaking loads on their shoulders to a nearby refinery. They do it for around $5 USD a day, a decent local salary.
Unfortunately, the miners don't have the necessary equipment they need for the conditions. During our time in the crater, I only saw one miner wearing a respirator. The rest were breathing in toxic gasses, day in and day out, using only cloths or sarongs as protection.
But despite the hazardous conditions, it's a job that provides extra income from tourists. The miners sell trinkets and souvenirs made from sulfur, or serve as photo subjects for a small tip. While most could never imagine working under such conditions, the miners have protested against modernization in order to keep their jobs.
How to hike Mt. Ijen
Photo by Jessy Eykendorp via Flickr
The beauty of the surrounding landscape, the mystery of the blue flames, and the awe of the sulfur miners all contribute to making Mt. Ijen a highlight of any trip to Indonesia. However, there are a few things to keep in mind before tackling the hike.
• The best time to hike Ijen is early in the morning, around 2 or 3 a.m. This will ensure the conditions are dark enough to see the blue flames. If conditions are clear, you'll also get to witness a stunning sunrise and the crater's acidic lake.
• It is about three kilometers up to the volcano's rim, then another kilometer or so down into the crater. There is a clearly marked trail up the volcano, but it is recommended to go with a guide if you plan on descending into the crater. Tours can be booked in Yogyakarta or other popular tourist destinations in Java.
• Be sure to wear good hiking shoes and comfortable clothing. Carry water and tissues, or bring a surgical mask to cover your mouth with if the conditions are poor.
If you want to learn how to hike Mt. Ijen without a tour guide, Be My Travel Muse has a guide here.
Would you hike Mt. Ijen?
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