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Brazil is the kind of place that wipes away inhibitions and makes you forget any sense of limitation. The rhythms, smells and images can really take you over and have you wandering around with your mouth hanging open. Or maybe that's just me. When I traveled to Salvador Bahia, in the Northeast region of the country, I was enthralled by the rich culture that shines through every aspect of life. My introduction started at the historic market, Mercado Modelo.
I think the term "shop 'til you drop" was created with Mercado Modelo in mind. Over 300 handicraft stalls cram into three levels, along with a colorful collection of bars and restaurants. Built in 1861 as a customs house, the market looms near the old harbor, filled with history and modern treasures.
Although the Mercado is filled with authentic Bahian culture, from baianas selling acaraje the traditional black eye pea fritters, to capoeristas performing the Brazilian martial art that originated in Angola at the entrance, the place was clearly created for tourists.
So if you're like me and can't stand to go near any silly tourist traps, don't pass up the Mercado. You'll have to haggle and the sheer number of souvenirs, along with huge crowds and echoing noise is overwhelming, but it's worth the experience.
As the center for Bahian artisan crafts, the floors are filled with paintings, sculptures, tapestries, jewelry, musical instruments and any other handicraft you can name. The paintings reveal a riot of vivid colors and talent, as well as the traditional cultural symbols and representations of the candomble religion.
Most of the vendors aren't aggressive and you can browse without being harassed. I think it helped that I was mistaken for a local Baiana, even though my Portuguese is horrifying. I haggled for two small paintings of candomble orixas or deities, that now hang triumphantly in my hallway.
For music and instrument fans, there's a never-ending displays of handcrafted drums, flutes and berimbaus, the traditional stringed instrument played during capoeira.
Ceremonial masks are also popular at the Mercado. Some were imported from Africa and some were
carved in Brazil in honor of various orixas or deities. Because the African/Brazilian religion of candomble permeates every aspect of daily Brazilian life, figurines and statues of candomble orixas are found everywhere.
I even spied key chains, t-shirts and glasses emblazoned with the figures. Each deity corresponds to a saint in the Catholic Church and represents certain elements and attributions. Even if you're not a shopper, Modelo Mercado offers a fascinating glimpse of Brazilian culture.
In the back, there's a patio area were you can sample traditional Brazilian dishes like my favorite moqueca, a fish stew made with coconut milk. Outside, capoeristas perform but be aware that they charge a fee to take photos and its best to negotiate a price before you start snapping.
To me, sitting in front of the Mercado, sipping on cashew juice and watching the capoeristas chant, whirl and flip, is a great way to dip into Brazilian culture.
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