Aruba's Happy, Ever-Growing Culinary Scene

Image: PHOTO: Aruba has more than 200 restaurants with at least 25 directly on the water, including the Flying Fishbone. (photo via Flickr/Misty Johnson)
Image: PHOTO: Aruba has more than 200 restaurants with at least 25 directly on the water, including the Flying Fishbone. (photo via Flickr/Misty Johnson)
Connie Walsh
by Connie Walsh
Last updated: 10:00 PM ET, Wed May 3, 2017

"What's your favorite restaurant here?" I asked my new acquaintance.

"The same as everyone's: Madam Janette's," he quickly responded, nodding emphatically. A rogue wave on Aruba's Eagle Beach had brought us together, rather unceremoniously, and I quickly identified him as a "homie" by his Boston accent. (We know our own.)

With a periodic tug on his New England Patriots cap, Joe proceeded to share his personal history with the island.

It all began with a purchase of a week's timeshare 30-plus years ago at the behemoth property Casa Del Mar. It was love at first stay; he added a couple of weeks each decade, branching out to a few other resorts.

Now a mini-mogul, he manages his property rentals and whiles away each winter enjoying stunning beaches, dry, sunny, days and, as he confided, a feeling of being safe. Presumably, a regular patron at Madame Janette's, he offered me a week's worth of restaurant suggestions.

The culinary scene in Aruba is booming, and dining is as important to most as snorkeling, windsurfing and hitting the casinos.

Americans do feel safe on tiny Dutch Caribbean Aruba-branded "One happy island." We heard that time and again.

It sits just 15 miles of the coast of the less-happy-these-days Venezuela, but has a symbiotic relationship with America. U.S dollars are accepted everywhere, and many of the direct flights pre-clear U.S. immigration and customs on the island. We are feelin' the love. Tourism is the mainstay of the island's economy, and the U.S. delivers more than 60 percent of the growing numbers.

Many are return visitors with a significant percentage from the northeast. Hordes make an annual pilgrimage, swapping their salt-stained galoshes for flip-flops. New Englanders frequently report bumping into someone from home. (Likely at a Dunkin' Donuts or in a sports bar catching a Red Sox game.)

Arubans share a love for our national pastime, in particular, the Olde Towne Team and root for their favorite son, Sox shortstop Xander Boegaerts. Champions is here with its 31 TVs, but why not bend your elbow at Carlitos Sports Beach Bar on the Palm Beach strip? (Try the local Balashi beer.)

[READMORE]READ MORE: Aruba for All Ages [/READMORE]

And oh, the restaurants. There are more than 200, with at least 25 located directly on the water.

There's fine dining galore. Every cuisine imaginable is available, and diners savor the variety of Dutch, South American and Caribbean influences. Prices are comparable to those in major U.S. cities, although there are good, cheap eats available-local Aruban fare and freshly caught fish-sampled with the local spicy papaya sauce.

Some restaurants have been here for decades, but new spots and concepts are eagerly anticipated and always given a fair shot. The competition is keen, and seemingly all have received the memo that Americans like big portions.

How big? Time-sharers' regularly leave with doggy bags for the next day's lunch.

The Aruba Gastronomic Association offers a selection of Dine Around Plans ,(30 of the island's restaurants participate), beginning with three dinners for $150.00 per person. Other good-value options are redeemable for breakfast and lunch.

Many of the hotels have in-house restaurants, from casual to haute cuisine, and offer meal plans. There are, by the way, no end of hotel choices, including little inns, boutiques and budget properties. All the major chains are present, and there's a new Ritz Carlton at the far end of Palm Beach with an alfresco trattoria.

Garnering awards and kudos for both style and its ecological operation, the adults-only Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort, sits at the end of gorgeous Eagle Beach. Their oceanfront restaurant, Elements, serves a sophisticated menu created from organic and sustainably-sourced food and what they describe as "healthy and European-sized portions."

Here on the island of hearty helpings, they clearly feel they have some 'splaining to do and they take pains to detail their policy. Bottom line: No need for doggy bags here.

Honeymoon or anniversary trip? Book one of Elements' four private cabanas, just steps from the water. They have two seatings: Sunset-6 pm and Moonlight-8:30 pm for a prix fix, three-course romantic dinner. That's priced at $190.44 per couple, bubbly included.

The resort is also home to Carte Blanche where Owner/Chef Dennis van Daatselaar delivers an epicurean experience for just 16 diners per evening. He prepares a 5-course dinner in an open kitchen setting.

You'll need to book months out.

[READMORE]READ MORE: Explore the Underwater Cemetery, a Secret of the Beaches of Aruba[/READMORE]

Restaurant Recommendations Courtesy of Joe and Me:

Madam Janette: Acclaimed and awarded, a sprawling garden strung with fairy lights is delightfully atmospheric. The continental cuisine is superb with distinctive sauces and offerings like Wienerschnitzel. Signature dishes include almond-crusted grouper. I loved the rack of lamb. Portions are enormous.

Flying Fishbone: Located in the charming fishing village of Savaneta (about a 30-minute drive from Oranjestad), this romantic restaurant sits on a crescent bay and you dine toes-in-the-sand. Try the Escargots de Bourgogne to start and enjoy the boat-to-table fish.

Papiamento: White-clothed candlelit tables surround the pool of a beautiful 19th-century manor house. A family restaurant, specialties include Arubian bouillabaisse and grilled tenderloin with gorgonzola au gratin. Save time to walk through the house.

Screaming Eagle: One of the island's hottest tables but wait, there's more! You can lounge on a South-Beach style bed or dine vertically at the patio on Chef Erwin Hüsken interpretation of French-fusion boutique cuisine. The Dover sole 'a la meunière' would be a memorable choice. The chef will filet it tableside for you.

El Gaucho: When you come back from Aruba, someone is sure to ask "Did you go to El Gaucho?" This Argentine Grill is an island institution. It opened some 40 years ago and still plays to rave reviews. Steaks? Yeah, baby! Go for the Churrasco Argentino or The Gaucho Steak for one pound of premium Argentine beef.

The Old Cunucu House: This original Aruban farmhouse was built more than 150 years ago and is the perfect venue to enjoy the traditional cuisine. Try the cabrito stoba (stewed goat meat) Aruban style, or the keshi yena: Gouda cheese and chicken, baked with onions, peppers, celery, green olives, raisins and cashew nuts.

Linda's Dutch Pancakes & Pizza: For breakfast or whenever, Linda's serves these yummy pancakes all day until 10 p.m. Twenty inches round, thin and delicate, there is every combination of sweet or savory imaginable. Walnuts with melted Brie and a drizzle of honey, or ham and Gouda cheese are two of the most popular. It all happens in a little house by the side of the road.

Plan to visit at least twice. It's that good.


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