Greek philosopher Heraclitus of Ephesus once said, "You can never step into the same river; for new waters are always flowing for you."
So it was with my quest to visit the ancient city of Ephesus, Turkey, a place that has called to me for years.
When planning our Mediterranean cruise, one thing was certain: Ephesus had to be on the itinerary.
One of the best-preserved ancient cities in the Med, Ephesus is Turkey's showpiece of Aegean archaeology and ancient Roman civilization. Now located only three miles from the sea, Ephesus was at one time the wealthiest and leading seaport of the Greco-Roman era. Situated at the mouth of the Cayster River, this major trade hub of the ancient world was also a religious center of early Christianity.
Once a quiet fishing village, colorful old wooden fishing boats still line the docks as a reminder of its past. Palm trees sway in the gentle wind along the pier. The sun's early brilliance casts shadows on the hills dominating the horizon. An ancient Byzantine fortress straight ahead still stands guard over the city.
Today, cruise ships dock in the turquoise waters of picturesque Kusadasi Harbour.
Our tour guide greets us with a sign and a smile and we immediately head to the ancient city of Ephesus located only 20 minutes from the port. An early tour is perfect for staving off the heat of the summer day, though cooling breezes from the ocean always seem to circulate among the ancient ruins.
Founded in the 10th century BC, the archeological site of ancient Ephesus is astounding to behold.
A mile-long, marble-paved street grooved by chariot wheels takes us to the well-preserved ancient city, with its library, theater, fountains and temples. Only 20% of the site has been excavated, but what is visible is magnificent.
Licensed tour guides regale us with stories of the history and culture of the region, (something visitors can't get with a guidebook alone). Baths, brothels, temples, gates and even latrines all have a story to tell.
One of the most impressive structures here is the Library of Celsus, built in 117 A.D. with its massive Corinthian-style columns rising from the ruins.
The grave of Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, a proconsul of Asia, is buried under the ground floor of what was once the largest and most exquisite surviving structure of antiquity. Statues located in the niches of the columns are exact copies of the originals built to symbolize the virtues of wisdom, knowledge, intelligence and valor. These niches once contained thousands of books and historic journals.
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The Temple of Artemis (known to the Romans as Diana, Apollo's twin) was considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. Though only the foundation remains, one can only imagine the vastness of the temple-four times larger than Athens' Parthenon when it was built in 135 A.D.
The monumental masterpiece of ancient Ephesus is the Great Theater built at the foot of Panayir Mountain.
The round, 100-foot high amphitheater could hold 25,000 spectators in its 66 rows of stone seats. Apart from the theatrical plays and the music performances, this impressive structure also hosted political and religious events as well as gladiator battles. According to the Bible, it is here in this theater during 1st century A.D. that the Apostle Paul daringly preached against Greece's pagan beliefs and practices by the many followers of Artemis.
Views from the top of the amphitheater show the massiveness of the structure as well as spectacular panoramas of the verdant hills and valleys surrounding the ancient city.
A definite not-to-be-missed site is Ephesus Archeological Museum, which is located on-site in the ancient city. Showcasing one of the best collections of Roman and Greek artifacts to be found anywhere in Turkey, the museum is divided into themed rooms, each reflecting a different period of fascinating Ephesian history.
Just nine kilometers from the ancient city, on a hair-raising narrow winding road, sits the House of Virgin Mary-the place she reportedly arrived with Saint John and lived her last days after the death of Jesus.
The site is quietly tucked away and almost hidden in the hills of Mt. Koressos. Though the Turkish historians uncovered the remains of the home many years ago, it was kept a secret because no one in the Vatican believed that an obscure French priest, following the visions of an equally obscure German nun and mystic, could possibly have found the actual house where the Virgin Mother spent her last years.
Yet, by the end of the century, the evidence had become so compelling that scholars had pronounced the discovery authentic and Pope John Paul II declared the site a place of pilgrimage. Many Christians, including three popes, have made their own pilgrimage to this humble, modest Roman-built stone home venerated as a shrine by Muslims and Christians alike.
Water flowing from a nearby spring is widely believed to have miraculous powers of healing and fertility. And a wishing wall-common in Turkish culture-contains thousands of pieces of paper with handwritten notes stuffed into a stone wall.
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Whether or not it's been proven (without a shadow of doubt) that the site is the actual place Mary lived until her assumption, even non-religious visitors say the hushed silence, reverence and reflection felt there is a very moving and humbling experience.
Each place visited in our big, beautiful world has its own unique story to tell. With the perfect combination of the sea, picturesque views, history and glorious ancient ruins, Ephesus proved to be one that was everything I imagined and more.
As Henry David Thoreau once said, "The question is not what you look at, but what you see."
We toasted the end of our unforgettable visit to Ephesus as we sailed out of Kusadasi Harbor. As if by special order, the sun spectacularly disappeared into the horizon, closing out quite a memorable day.
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