It was raining as we boarded the car ferry from St. Thomas to St. John, one of the most beautiful of the U.S. Virgin Islands. In five minutes, the rain stopped and a rainbow appeared. 15 minutes later, we were arriving a world away from busier civilization.
Smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, its unspoiled beauty is one of the greatest found anywhere in the Caribbean.
Spellbound and moved by the island chain's incredible beauty, Laurance Rockefeller, venture capitalist, financier, philanthropist and conservationist purchased, once donated 60 percent of St. John to the United States' National Park Service. In 1962, Congress expanded the boundary of Virgin Islands National Park to include 5,650 acres of submerged lands to protect and preserve the stunning coral gardens, seascapes and sleepy lagoons.
That means visitors can savor a taste of true paradise in this ecological wonder.
Once docked at the pier, we headed straight to Annaberg Plantation, one of 25 sugar producing factories and mills on the island. Annaberg, however, is part of the island's national park system and has some of those most incredible vistas around. Multiple pull-offs are located on the scenic winding roads, and it's not hard to see why.
Magnificent views of the turquoise waters, surrounding beaches and mountain ranges are a sight to behold. Seven wild donkeys crossing the road at one point caused us, as well as all oncoming traffic, to come to a dead stop.
They, along with deer, cows, pigs and mongoose are quite aware they own right of way on the island.
A well-maintained trail at Annaberg lead through factory ruins, slave quarters, a windmill and other remains. Placards and signs along the trails describe how sugar was produced while discussing plantation life and the history of sugar making on St. John.
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Cinnamon Bay Plantation's stone and brick ruins are just a 15 to 20-minute ride from Annaberg and are the most extensive. Another path leading through a heavily- shaded canopy of vines and trees guided us to remains of one of the island's most prosperous sugar cane operations from the 1700s. The easy half-mile loop contained placards explaining how each of the main structures was involved in the process of making sugar, molasses and rum.
Further down the trail, we noted crypts of a Danish Family who perished on the island during this period.
Heading to Cruz Bay, St. John's picturesque harbor, we lunched at Joe's Rum Hut-a relaxed island hangout overlooking the water and a perfect spot for people watching. Our party of four who love sharing food all proclaimed each entrée to be the best-from Caribbean chicken wings, spicy sesame shrimp, conch fritters with a jalapeno jelly to their delectable mouth-watering cheeseburgers.
No to-go boxes were needed for this hungry crew.
Our afternoon was spent by renting two dinghy boats from Noah's Little Ark, located just off the waterfront. After a safety demonstration, we were more than ready to explore St. John by water. Full or half-day rentals are available and reservations can be made in advance and are highly recommended.
Some of the most photographed beaches in the world are located on St. John, and our quest was to find them as we maneuvered through clear turquoise and azure-tinted waters. Thankfully, maps are provided to guide boaters to each of these islands.
Our first stop was beaching our dinghys on one of our favorite beaches, Trunk Bay, which is renowned for its beauty and snorkeling. A 225-yard Underwater Trail of Reefs of coral formations, colorful angelfish and striped sergeant majors off set beach sand of pearly white and the clear aquamarine water that is perfect for swimmers. It remains shallow for a good distance before gradually dropping off to deeper lengths.
Next, we were off to the quiet coves of Maho and Francis Bay.
We heard sea turtles are typically found in this area due to its grassy sea beds and we were not disappointed as we slowly cruised into its protected crystalline waters. The beaches and waters here were practically empty except for a few snorkelers and one lone paddle boarder. We slowly approach Francis Bay where more turtles were spotted, then proceeded to beach the boat.
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Palm trees swayed in the gentle breeze. Wispy clouds floated above. It's serene here-the only sounds coming from the diving sea birds and waves gently lapping the shore. If there is heaven on earth, this must be it.
We were surprised to find the snorkeling here among the coral reefs even better than Trunk Bay, what with its puffers and parrot fish. As we cruised back, we passed more incredible beaches along the way with names like Hawksnest, Cinnamon and Jumbie. We returned our boats, and then spent some time exploring the town of Cruz Bay.
Quaint streets and walkways guide visitors through a mecca of artisan shops, boutiques, fine art galleries and eateries. Shopping here is a cultural extravaganza even for those like me who don't come to a tropical paradise to shop.
A five-minute stroll from the bay lead to a magnificent stone and mahogany shopping area called Mongoose Junction. The Tap Room is an island microbrewery perfect for a break and a sampling of cold local draft beers.
St. John's atmosphere is laid-back and easy, and we're reminded of country singer Kenny Chesney's song "No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem." It fits this island to a tee.
After a long but relaxing day of amazing exploration, we headed back to St. Thomas as the sun was setting in the distance. Rumi, a 13th century Persian poet once said, "On the day when the wind is perfect, the sail just needs to open and the world is full of beauty. Today is such a day."
Perhaps he'd been to a place like St. John.
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