Drinking in Vienna's Wine Scene

Normally when travelers want to vacation in wine country, they have to go to the country.

But not in Vienna.

The Austrian capital is the only city that is also a significant wine producer with more than 1,700 acres of vineyards within the city limits. While the Imperial City is better known for Schonbrunn Palace and the Vienna Boys Choir, wine is just as integral to the city’s culture.

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Traditionally, it is enjoyed at a heuriger or wine tavern. The heuriger began in the 1700s when Emperor Josef II allowed wine growers to serve wine produced in their own vineyards. Today, visitors can find a tavern by looking for the Ausg Stecht sign and a fir branch, which indicates the heuriger is open.

A night at a heuriger is perfect for experiencing just-released Vienna wine, traditional Austrian cuisine, music and a general atmosphere of Gemütlichkeit.

Viennese wine is 80 percent white, focused on Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, Weissburgunder and Sauvignon Blanc. The reds that do well are Zweigelt and St. Laurent varietals. Influenced by the Pannonian climate and cool northern winds, they tend to have fresh and fruity notes.

A uniquely Viennese wine is Gemischter Satz, which literally means "field blend." It must have at least three grape varietals, and the grapes must be planted, harvested and vinified together.

In the past, the wine wasn’t always that high quality, but several of Vienna’s top vintners are changing that. WienWein is a collaboration between Wieninger, Christ, Edlmoser, Cobenzi, Mayer am Pfarplatz and Fuhrgassl Huber vineyards, created to improve the overall quality of Vienna wine and revive Gemischter Satz.

I sat down with Fritz Wieninger to learn more about Vienna wines and taste some of his creations. His Gemischter Satz is a blend of 11 different grapes and is light, fruity and easy-drinking. The Reserve Gemischter Satz consists of nine different grapes and is more complex and structured.

"I especially like the Viennese Gemischter Satz—a Viennese classic that has almost been forgotten," he said.

Wieninger was literally brought up in the wine business: His mother’s family has made wine for 130 years, and his father’s family since the 1600s. Today, his winery is one of Vienna’s largest and most renowned. According to Wieninger, many heuriger’s are more focused on the food side of the business than the wine.

His group, WienWein is about putting wine first.

Wieninger was one of the first Viennese winemakers to embrace biodynamic methods across his 129 acres of vineyards. While many Viennese wines remain in Vienna, Wieninger exports to more than 40 countries, including the United States.

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According to Wieninger, most wineries are open to the public Mon-Saturday 10-4, but it’s always best to make an appointment. Wineries are primarily located in Districts 19 and 21.

Another way to experience Vienna’s wine culture is on a cellar tour.

The 500-year old Villon Wine Cellar lies four-stories below street level in the heart of Vienna. Tours and tastings are offered every Friday and Saturday.

The Wine Cellar at the Palais Coburg is housed in a 16th-century ruin and contains an impressive 60,000 bottles, including many rare vintages. A variety of tours and tastings are available. The Schlumberger Champagne Cellars is the oldest champagne cellar in Austria and stores more than a million bottles of bubbles. Tours and tastings are available. Or choose to have dinner at Augustinerkeller, a restaurant in the wine cellar of a former monastery.

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The experts at Haas & Haas Porta Dextra near St. Stephens Cathedral can help you select the perfect bottle to bring home. The store has a unique basement cellar that dates back hundreds of years. In fact, some of the bricks came from the original city gate to Vienna!

Heuriger Wine Taverns

Christ

A modern winery and a heuriger. The wines are some of the city’s best.

Amtsstrasse 10-14, 1210 Vienna, tel. +43-1-292 51 52, www.weingut-christ.at

Edlmoser

The “wild young” vintner of Mauer has won numerous sampling competitions with his wines that are influenced by the new world style. The fantastic buffet is just as impressive as the noble wines.

Maurer Lange Gasse 123, 1230 Vienna, tel. +43-1-889 86 80, www.edlmoser.at

Fuhrgassl-Huber

A renowned big heuriger known for its Riesling from Nussberg.

Neustift am Walde 68, 1190 Vienna, tel. +43-1-440 14 05, www.fuhrgassl-huber.at

Göbel

A modern setting in Vienna’s only cellar lane. The red wines are of top caliber.

Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131, 1210 Vienna, tel. +43-1-294 84 20, www.weinbaugoebel.at

Hengl-Haselbrunner

Interesting white and red wines paired with excellent cuisine.

Iglaseegasse 10, 1190 Vienna, tel. +43-1-320 33 30; www.hengl-haselbrunner.at

Kierlinger

Traditional heuriger in a historic setting—the Liptauer cheese is Vienna’s best.

Kahlenberger Strasse 20, 1190 Vienna, tel. +43-1-370 2264, www.kierlinger.at