Here's What It's Like to Visit Saudi Arabia as a Woman

While Saudi Arabia has long taken steps to keep tourism at bay, all of that changed in late 2019. The mysterious Kingdom decided to open its doors to travelers from 49 countries, including the United Kingdom and the United States, via a new Electronic Visa program.

With that announcement, adventure-seekers and culture lovers had the opportunity to visit Saudi Arabia for up to 90 days at a time. I was one of the first Americans to visit under the Electronic Visa program, and as a woman traveling alone, I was curious but also cautious about visiting this country. After all, gender segregation is the norm in Saudi Arabia, and women were only granted the right to drive in 2018.

My initial worry about traveling to Saudi Arabia was quickly swept aside once I realized that being there felt quite normal and natural. The only reason I felt remotely out of place was due to the clothing I was wearing.

Because Saudi Arabia announced they wouldn't require foreign women to wear the long abaya robe donned by local Saudis in order to preserve their modesty, I chose not to wear one. I didn't receive any strange looks for the somewhat modest clothing I chose instead, but I felt like I stood out. Despite the fact that face coverings aren't legally required in Saudi Arabia, a large percentage of women still wear a black abaya and a Muslim niqab, which leaves only their eyes exposed.

But people are just people anywhere in the world. I might have felt out of place due to my lack of coverings, but Saudi people hardly looked my way. Just like anywhere else, everyday people are too busy with their daily lives to care about what tourists are doing or wearing.

I was also pleasantly surprised at how friendly and welcoming Saudi people could be. Many locals from Saudi Arabia, including men and women, went out of their way to make outsiders feel like they belong. They strike up conversations and invite you into their stores, and they make sure you feel welcome and safe.

While gender segregation is largely being phased out by the Saudi government over time, you'll still notice it in full effect. For example, there are separate lines at airport security for men and women, and stores have separate entrances for men and for families.

You may also notice that hotels you book might have a pool or spa that is only open to men, and that shisha bars-known at home as hookah bars-and bowling alleys are often only for men.

Still, despite the sweeping gender segregation you'll find in Saudi Arabia, you won't necessarily find it offensive. At least, I didn't find it offensive at all-even as an American feminist.

That's probably because men in Saudi Arabia are kind and respectful to women. Even though I couldn't use the men's pool or the men's spa at the Ritz Carlton where I stayed in Riyadh, for example, I wasn't treated as a second-class citizen by Saudis of the opposite gender.

I wasn't sure how Saudis spent their time before I visited, but I am now aware that shopping is a major pastime. Malls in Saudi Arabia can also be luxurious and over the top, featuring high brow stores like Prada and Gucci.

And if you think you'll only find stores stuffed with abayas and traditional clothing, think again. Malls in Saudi Arabia have Victoria's Secret and fancy boutiques with party dresses and any other clothing you'd expect in the U.S.

While the capital city of Riyadh features an array of towering high-rise buildings ranging from hotels to its famous Kingdom Centre, you'll find plenty of older, historic districts within Riyadh and far beyond where most Saudis live.

For example, Saudi Arabia is home to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Al-Ula, which is an ancient walled city built into the side of jagged mountains, similar to Jordan's Petra. The coastal city of Jeddah is also surprisingly cosmopolitan, yet it features a strikingly beautiful old quarter with unique tower houses dating back to the 19th century.

If my time in Saudi Arabia taught me anything, it's that this conservative country is more welcoming than one might assume. People are just people anywhere you go, and that's even true in Saudi Arabia, where women were finally granted the right to travel without a male guardian's permission in 2019.

This dynamic country has already changed a lot, but there could be a lot more change on the way as the Kingdom opens its borders to tourists and relaxes long-held societal beliefs. If you want to see Saudi Arabia while this transition is still underway, you should plan your trip soon.