When my family and I first visited Ensenada, a bustling port city in Mexico's Baja California, we fell in love. We fell in love with its wildly beautiful panoramas of wind-chiseled cliffs and the glistening Pacific. We fell in love with its cobblestone streets, its absorbing markets and its friendly people. But most of all, we fell in love with its food-its vibrant, delicious, unrivaled food.
Californians who love to drink and party fly to Cabo or head down to Tijuana. Gastronomes, however, prefer to drive a couple of hours south of the California-Mexico border to this epicurean outpost. Here the coffee is surprisingly excellent, ceviche flows like wine, and there's a Baja taco stand in every corner. Here are five of the best spots in Ensenada for a gastronomic adventure you'll keep coming back for.
For Lobster: Villa Ortega
Forty-five minutes away from Ensenada along the coast is the town of Rosario. It's not really known much for anything. That is, except for its langosta (lobster), which in these parts are usually cut in half, fried then served with rice, beans, tortilla, lemon and butter. Before you make it to the port city, turn right at the sign that says "Puerto Nuevo." This tiny little area, bubbling with souvenir and sweets shops, restaurants, and merchants touting their wares and fares, is the setting for your lobster indulgence.
Make a beeline for Villa Ortega, an established restaurant set on the southern corner of the horseshoe shaped center, tethering on a cliff. A common complaint among Yelpers is that it's a bit pricey. But their scrumptious lobster feast along with that epic panorama of the Pacific and the glorious coast makes it worth the price tag.
For Baja-Style Fish and Shrimp Tacos: Tacos Fenix
Baja California is known for its Baja-style tacos, and Ensenada is THE place for the Baja-style fish and shrimp tacos. But sometimes, the best places are the most unexpected. Wander off Ensenada's beaten path to the corner of Espinoza And Calle Quinta where a small taco stand is busy serving its mostly local clientele.
[READMORE]READ MORE: A Travel Guide to Ensenada, Mexico[/READMORE]
Tacos Fenix is nondescript and looks like most stands in the city, but-I kid you not-it makes some of the best battered fish and battered shrimp tacos in the area. Perfectly crunchy on the outside while moist and tender on the inside, top these babies with cabbages, mayo, lemon and spicy salsa. Order two of each, as they're dirt cheap, and grab a can of Mexican coke to wash them down. Not that you need help doing so.
For Ceviche Tostadas: La Guerrerense
Made popular by Anthony Bourdain himself when he featured it in a Baja episode of "No Reservations," La Guerrerense has long been a household name in these parts. They're so established in fact that they have their own line of sauces with at least 10 different flavors to serve as toppings for the one Ensenada delicacy they are famous for.
They're still just a stand, located along Avenida Alvarado in the city's tourist section, which makes us love them more. It's their seafood ceviche however, served on small, toasted tortillas and topped with avocados (which you have to request), that we keep coming back for. The fish ceviche is the most popular, of course. But the shrimp and the fish with mango ones also hit the spot. Before you leave, purchase a jar of sauce and take a piece of this spot home with you.
For Breakfast: El Rey Sol Restaurant
There are many spots for breakfast around town. All you need to do is walk along the tourist section, and you'll likely come across a cafe or a brunch place. Some are, however, better than others. And El Rey Sol certainly claims one of the top spots.
The food at this classic restaurant is fantastic. It only takes a peek at its display of the tiny desserts freshly made every day in its own bakery to know this. But breakfast here is an especially lovely affair. A pastry basket of croissants and cheese danishes, also made in the bakery, is served at every table to get you started; and before long, you'll be serenaded by a pianist. There's also a Van Gogh print hanging on one of the walls. Traditional is the way to go. Order a heaping plate of Chilaquiles Verdes or the hearty Dona Pepita.
For Steak: Sano's Steakhouse
As with many great steakhouses, there's an air of high dignity and, let's admit it, pretension about Sano's. The servers are friendly where it counts and accommodating enough, but a warm conversation and a shared laugh might be a tad too much to ask. They might be too busy turning their noses up at you, especially if you're opting for one measly glass of wine instead of a whole bottle.
The food, however, is nothing short of spectacular. Beef and other types of meat may not be an easy commodity to come by in these parts, but Sano's know their meat well. You'll be hard-pressed to find a dish that isn't tantalizingly good at this restaurant, whether you're ordering a traditional Mexican steak or fried quails. But if you want really good steak, go for the tender fillet mignon wrapped in bacon and served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly cooked asparagus. And order a glass (or a bottle) of wine from nearby Valle de Guadalupe, which you can enjoy as you're being serenaded by a Mariachi band.
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