Catchin’ the Ketchikan Spirit

John Muir once said, “To the lover of wilderness, Alaska is one of the most wonderful countries in the world.”

Alaska had been on our travel bucket list for a long time, and we finally made our first visit there on an Alaskan cruise with friends. We called this our “snapshot” trip because it provided the opportunity to see glaciers up close and personal and visit some fascinating port cities.

Ketchikan, however, stole our hearts.

Getting there is half the fun. Ketchikan is the southernmost entrance to Alaska’s famed Inside Passage. This network of waterways meanders through some of the most awe-inspiring jaw-dropping wilderness in the world.

One of the most breathtaking sites along the way is the massive Hubbard Glacier, routinely calving icebergs the size of 8-story buildings. It’s an unforgettable experience.

The rustic beauty and majesty of Ketchikan lured us the moment we approached the port even with an overcast sky. The town hugs the steep hillsides of the southwest edge of spectacularly lush Revillagigedo Island. Stretching 31 miles long but no more than 10 blocks wide, Ketchikan’s backdrop is the forested slopes of the Tongas National Forest. This amazing 17million-acre rainforest features some of the most mystical natural vistas on the planet.

Despite a population of only 8,000, it’s the fifth largest city in Alaska and surprisingly there’s no shortage of things to do. Here are some of the high points that make Ketchikan such a unique and popular Alaskan destination.

Exploring Historic Ketchikan

The town sits at the base of 3,000-foot Deer Mountain. Originally a fishing settlement for the Tongas and Cape Fox Tlingit Indians, Ketchikan takes its name from the creek Kitschk-hin meaning “thundering wings of an eagle.”

In the 1880s a cannery was built and the area became supply central for area miners during the Alaskan gold rush of the 1890s. The canning of fish subsequently became the city’s chief economic engine, followed closely by logging and lumbering.

The best way to experience Ketchikan is by foot and maps can be picked up at the visitor’s center. Despite its imposing backdrop, hillside homes, and a myriad of staircases, the main part of this charming historic town is easily walkable.

The downtown is the major commercial district with two harbors, cruise ship docks and many of Ketchikan’s major attractions. The Waterfront Promenade passing Harbor View Park sports incredible scenic maritime views for both tourists and residents.

We loved the fast flowing creeks with scenic bridges meandering through town and feeding into the harbor. Picturesque Creek Street once served as the bawdy mining and fishing town’s red-light district. During Prohibition, the area was also home to numerous speakeasies.

The boardwalk over Ketchikan Creek which at one time supported the bordellos and speakeasies is now filled with gift shops, museums, art galleries, bookstores, and restaurants. And it’s a photographer’s dream.

When we signed up for the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show in town, we weren’t sure what to expect. Fun-filled and comedic, this iconic Northwest capital competition between Canadian and American Lumberjack teams was quite a spectacle. The show featured some amazing athletic feats and yet, somehow managed to weave in local history and education about the timber and lumberjacking with an eco-tourism bent.

Celebrating the Salmon Capital of the World

Ketchikan is renowned as Alaska’s Best Salmon Fishing Town. Why? Because it provides optimal opportunities along the Alaskan Coast to reel in the big one for those who are into fishing.

Those who aren’t may still have a chance to witness a classic Alaskan experience known as the salmon run. Summer is the time when salmon migrate from the ocean and swim up river to spawn on crystal clear gravel beds.

We arrived the day the salmon run began. Taking a short stroll from downtown to Ketchikan Creek Falls, we found some great vantage points and set our cameras on action mode. We gaped in utter amazement as thousands of large persistent salmon vigorously thrashed their way upstream. Their life and death mission was to climb the fish ladder, a series of pools arranged like steps up the creek to aid them on their journey.

The determined fish literally sailed through the air, some even leaping the falls on their desperate journey. If this spectacle wasn’t thrilling enough, a large seal somehow managed to navigate through the harbor and upstream to a pool at the foot of the first ladder. There he patiently waited for his meal to come to him. He was not disappointed.

Visiting a Native Totem Park

Totem poles are symbolic icons of the Pacific Northwest. And the largest collection of Native American totems in the world can be found in Ketchikan.

Saxman Native Village Totem Park just south of town is home to an extensive collection of totems. The park also features a replica clan house and an authentic wood carving center.

24 fascinating totem poles are scattered throughout the verdant forested park. Moved from abandoned villages around the Inside Passage during the 1930s, these totems exude an almost spiritual aura. Many have been beautifully restored or reverently re-carved. A Tlingit language lesson and traditional dance-and-drum performance were included in the narrated tour.

Sea Kayaking

Brilliant colored starfish, sun stars, and sea cucumbers. We got to see them all during our 2 ½-hour sea kayak experience through the crystalline waters of Ketchikan.

Our adventure began with a leisurely paddle up Ketchikan Creek, then through the salmon fishing port of Thomas Harbor. Next, we headed across the East Channel of the Tongas Narrows to Pennock Island. It was a day of magic and Mother Nature put on quite a show.

Not only did we not only get to see more jumping salmon, harbor seals, and sea lions, we also observed nesting bald eagles and a Mama black bear feeding on salmon along the shoreline with her young cub.

Dining in Ketchikan

We heard it was good. But it was more. It was delectable! Alaska Fish House is located on the water next to the most historic fishing fleet in Ketchikan. The rustic-themed cannery-style eatery is popular with locals as well as visitors.

It’s no surprise that it’s all about fresh Alaskan seafood. And were we ever thrilled. While waiting for our meals, we drooled over a delicious warm salmon cornbread.

Everything here is freshly caught and it was difficult to choose among the three featured Fish and Chips selections. Our server offered the perfect solution, the AK Sampler—one piece each of delicious Bering Sea Cod, Local Silver Salmon and Local Halibut served with mesquite fries and southwest coleslaw. We shared the order and every fish variety was to die for. We saved room for another house specialty, the sinfully mouthwatering Blueberry Rhubarb Bread Pudding served with homemade cinnamon whipped cream and caramel sauce.

There’s no doubt as our ship departed Ketchikan why it was our favorite Alaskan port. From phenomenal food and spectacular surroundings to experiencing some of the region’s fascinating history, Ketchikan more than delivered.

Add in their salmon and their warm and friendly people, and in just a day we truly caught the Ketchikan spirit. And it left us yearning for more.