by Scott Laird
Last updated: 12:15 AM ET, Tue September 18, 2018
Some visitors go to Amsterdam for the red light district or to experiment with substances not legal or readily available in their home country. Others go to explore the city's wealth of museums, art galleries, coffee shops, wander through centuries-old churches, or peer into the "Secret Annex," where Anne Frank and several others hid from the Nazis during the Holocaust.
For me, on my first trip to The Netherlands over a long weekend, the choice was simple: I wanted to see, feel, and taste the most iconic bits of Holland's legacy.
Holland, by the way, is the name of two provinces in the west of The Netherlands. The name Holland is often colloquially applied to the entire country (the marketing organization for The Netherlands is even called "Visit Holland") but the specific region of Holland is quite specific.
During my research, I found that Old Holland can easily be explored on a half day itinerary, laid out step-by-step on iAmsterdam.com. In four hours on a bicycle, travelers can visit the nearby towns of Monnickendam, Volendam, Edam, and Marken; the first stop is about a half hour outside Amsterdam's central station on the public bus, which runs about every twenty minutes.
The morning I set out on my journey, I realized the bicycle shop in Monnickendam that provides the rentals wasn't open on Sundays, but happily, most of the journey is walkable and can be done easily on public transit without a bicycle. So I took the bus straight to Edam, peering out the window through fields of sheep, horses and cows, separated by canals lined by residents set up for fishing.
Edam is a delightfully walkable hamlet where the cheese market dates to 1778 and is open daily. There's a folkloric demonstration for tourists on Wednesdays during the summer; on other days visitors can see how cheese is traditionally weighed and carried, and also sample cheese (try the coconut-flavored Edam for something different).
At the nearby Edam Museum, travelers can feel as though they've gone back in time to the Dutch Golden Age and explore how the Dutch have crafted their trademark way of modest, comfortable living. The building sits on a floating cellar and visitors who pay close attention to the sensation beneath their feet can tell the ground isn't entirely firm.
Just a few miles down the road is Volendam, a town with a scenic harbor on the Ijsselmeer. Here, travelers will find another museum offering glimpses of the past, and an eel smokehouse which offers samples (Volendam is famous for smoked eel).
There's a pretty touristy waterfront lined with cafes and souvenir shops, but for lunch or refreshment with a view on a pleasant day, it's a good way to pass time waiting for the ferry.
With a bicycle, one can take the coastal route back to Monnickendam, but on foot, it's easier to take the ferry to Marken. It takes about a half hour and the upper deck provides ample opportunity for scenic shots arriving and departing. The waterfront in Marken also has several cafes and is a quieter place to enjoy a refreshment break than frenzied Volendam.
Marken is an island town now connected to the mainland by a dike-road. It's noted for its traditional architecture, which visitors can learn about in detail at the Marken Museum. Those wishing to learn about the famous wooden clogs (klompen) can visit the Klompenmakerij Marken just a few paces away to see a demonstration of how the wooden shoes are made (€2.50) and shop for shoes in a variety of sizes.
Taking the bus back to Monnickendam, it's worthwhile to make the short walk over the bridge to Katwoude to take a 30-minute tour of the windmill (April through October, by appointment). This particular windmill was used for water management and drainage, but the Dutch used windmills for everything from pump systems to milling grain. It's also a good place for a photo.
Travel Tips
Bus travel requires tapping on and off with your pass when boarding and exiting. Buses stop at stations as scheduled, but won't stop at bus stops unless you wave them down. Similarly, non-station stops must be requested by pushing the "Stop" button onboard.
As is common throughout Europe, cafe servers will generally leave guests alone unless they've just sat down; checks aren't usually presented unless requested. Cards are widely accepted and tips are typically just change rounded up to the next full euro.
It's also good form to offer salutations to bus drivers and shopkeepers (in Dutch or English) when entering and a wave and a thank you when departing.
Wax-wrapped Edam cheese doesn't require refrigeration until opened and quantities for personal use can be imported to the United States and Canada in carry-on or checked baggage, counting toward duty-free allowance.
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