Enchanting Holbox Island

Having been to Mexico countless times over the years, I was ready to try something new this winter. I love all the Mexican resort destinations, including Cancun, Riviera Maya, Playa del Carmen, Puerto Vallarta and even Acapulco, but was eager for something a little different.

Earlier this month, I went to a new-to-me spot that enchanted – Holbox Island, a small spit of land just off the coast about two hours north of Cancun.

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Holbox is almost the opposite of Cancun, which draws travelers with its mammoth resorts, late-night discos, shopping malls and nonstop action. In contrast, Holbox has no paved roads, transport by golf cart and utility vehicle, wildlife including flamingoes at the right time of year, and calm, clear, shallow waters.

That’s not to say Holbox has nothing for visitors to do – it has lovely beaches, a small but lively downtown with great restaurants, and a more rustic appeal. Instead of high-rise all-inclusive resorts, Holbox offers a collection of small, boutique hotels no more than three stories tall. I stayed at Margaritaville St. Somewhere by Karisma, a year-old property that is the largest on the island – with only 39 guest rooms and suites!

The property was purpose-built by Karisma to blend in with the Holbox ambience, not tower over it. It’s a short golf cart ride into town, where visitors wander the shops and souvenir stands downtown or gather to watch the sunset from the beach. We did so while drinking Palomas at the Bikini Bottom Bar.

We also explored other islands during a four-hour boat tour. The first stop was the island of Yalahau, where we bobbed in a refreshing, deep cenote after being fitted with life jackets. The natural pool was filled with crystal-clear spring water, although I still couldn’t tell exactly how deep it was. Yalahau, which also has walking trails and an overlook tower, is popular with visitors and local tourists as well.

Then our tour took us to Passion Island, where we waded in warm, shallow waters drifting over soft white sand full of small shells.

Onto Mosquito Point, where the large sand bar also was covered with the balmy water. I walked into the sea for 10 minutes and the water still wasn’t up to my waist. It was a quiet spot ideal for relaxing on a beach towel and gazing at the endlessly blue horizon. Or, even taking a nap while resting face-up in the ankle-deep water.

Downtown Holbox has a number of good restaurants, some with live music or a DJ. Or guests can stay and dine at Margaritaville St. Somewhere, a European-plan hotel that offers two restaurants – the Harbour House Peninsular Cuisine & Wood Stove Bar and the Sand Bar & Pan American Grill, where diners can wriggle their feet in the soft sand while eating. One fun option is to order a floating lunch to enjoy right in the pool. One day we devoured the taco tray, which floated in the swimming pool, loaded with shrimp tacos, fresh guacamole, ceviche and salsas. The next day, the floating tray was full of cheeseburgers, chicken wings, pizza, mozzarella sticks and more.

Margaritaville St. Somewhere regularly hosts a lunar celebration on the beach during the full moon and other events, including a sunset healing ceremony incorporating Maya traditions. Visitors also can visit the local animal shelter to take the resident dogs for a quick walk on the beach.

Holbox has an atmosphere of old Mexico, and the island wants to keep it that way. It strikes a balance between a quieter getaway while still offering vacationers plenty to do – as long as they don’t want a 24-hour, nonstop party.

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