Nuku Hiva: Captivating Charm in the Marquesas

Nuku Hiva is so diverse, it's like four islands in one.

The airport lies on a rocky, windswept coast reminiscent of a Greek Isle. The 90 minute drive to the island's main settlement at Taioha'e takes visitors up through a pine forest up the side of a mountain peak that could easily be in the Sierra Nevadas, across a high plateau with brilliant greens that could rival a Tuscan summer, and down into a crescent-shaped bay that is unmistakably South Pacific.

Nuku Hiva was one of the first islands in this part of Polynesia to populate American imaginations-Herman Melville's Typee, the 1846 novel for which he was most famous during his lifetime, was set here.

The name is taken from the modern village of Taipivai, although in the book his characters first land at Taioha'e during the 1842 French annexation of the island group-long before France gained control of Tahiti and combined all their possessions in the region to a single department named French Polynesia.

The population today is steady at around 2,000, far less than in Melville's day. Upon arriving on the Air Tahiti flight inbound from Hiva Oa, one of the pension owners asked: "What pension have you booked?" Upon mentioning the Keikahanui Pearl Lodge, he motioned toward a lady in shorts and a fashionable trilby hat, "That's your cab driver right there." The community is small enough that visitors are apparent, and residents are well aware of each other's business.

The cab driver carried another guest and a returning local in her 4WD vehicle (required for journeys to and from the airport because of the steep terrain), with whom she chattered happily in French and Marquesan while pointing out the sites for the visitors in French during the journey.

On the way down one of the steep mountain roads, she flagged down a school bus. Both vehicles stopped in the middle of the road, she was able to transfer several mysterious tarp-wrapped packages to the school bus without holding up any traffic (there wasn't any) before laughing and returning behind the wheel with a brief explanation "A typical Marquesan scene for you,"

Taioha'e, which is the administrative capital of the Marquesas, sits on a crescent bay dotted with homes, guest houses and convenience stores. At one end, on the hillside, lies the Keikahanui Pearl Lodge, with 20 bungalows nestled into the hillside above a charming main lodge.

It's a short walk from each bungalow through the immaculate grounds with white or pink plumeria trees leading to a private staircase onto the black sand beach below. Lovers of seclusion who might like to sneak down to the beach for private reverie at dawn or dusk on more populated islands will likely find they have the beach to themselves at almost any time of day on Nuku Hiva, or that their company might just be a stray horse instead of another human.

There's a grand avenue along the waterfront into Taioha'e and on most days a cyclist or pedestrian can walk quite far without encountering vehicle traffic. By the stream about halfway to town is Temeha Tohua, a restored cultural site that was once the home of the island's ruling chief.

From the first European contacts during the 18th Century, the area served as a sort of informal embassy, with visitors come to "exchange names" with the chiefs Putahaii, Kiatonui, and later Temoana, who imposed French authority following annexation.

In Taioha'e near the pier, there's a small visitor's center and the modern, open are fare artisanal or artisans center, where islanders come to sell handicrafts such as the famed Marquesan wood carvings and other adornments made from wood, shells and bone.

Next door is the open air market where vendors sell fruits, vegetables, and fresh fish, and Snack Tematapuaua, a good place to sit down with a beverage and eavesdrop on local conversations. Like on Hiva Oa, visitors will recognize faces from the flight and airport throughout town.

Here, at the pier, is where the half-day excursion for Hakatea Bay departs. It's a couple clicks down the coastal cliffs, and the water can get pretty rough-enough for the small boat to require two powerful outboard motors to keep up with the swells. Once again, the payoff for the journey is magnificent: towering, rugged mountains sloping right down into the emerald waters.

Millennia of rainfall have carved the mountain faces into craggy fingers that seem at once menacing and comforting, like fearsome sentinels standing guard over the valleys. It's like something out of King Kong.

The boat parks in a secluded bay while the guide explains that many of the bays on the island are "hidden"; that is, their entrances are narrow and not particularly apparent from the water, so they're easily defended. After a short walk from the beach through the brush to the village of Hakaui, it's easy to see why such a place might be an attractive pillage.

A crystal clear, ice cold stream runs through it, while virtually every tree that's not a coconut palm is fruit-bearing. Grapefruits, wild papaya, pineapple, banana-they're all within easy reach (although most of them are in people's yards, so reach we don't).

The guide shows us the coconut grove, where the coconut palms are planted in neat rows. Elsewhere are poster quality scenes of South Pacific idyll: a boat pulled up on shore, a horse lazily eating grass next to the stream, palm trees waved out over the water-all of it looked down upon by the imposing mountains.

After seeing local sights like the local phone booth, church (the villagers are Catholic, but there is no priest here-lay ministers provide services) and trail leading deeper into the valley where we're told there's a waterfall, we stop at the home of the guide's cousin, where we're offered lemonade and fruit ices in paper cups.

I choose pineapple flavor, and the ladies explain it's made with just the local fruit, juice, and ice-all local, onsite, and without any additives of any kind. A large pot bubbles on the stove while the ladies fuss with a baby. The house is equal parts indoor and outdoor spaces, and remoteness aside, it's tempting to search out a realtor (until one remembers French Polynesia's strict residency requirements for land ownership).

Throughout the walk, the guide shares stories of Polynesian wayfinding and culture with the sensibility of an academic. He speaks carefully, well aware that the stories vary slightly throughout Polynesia, but it's a sensibility that's easy to understand, considering in the Marquesas themselves the language varies from South to North. Even the name of the islands is different here (Te Henua Enana) compared with the South (Te Fenua Enata).

After a languid swim in the bay, it's time to return to Taioha'e, where the lodge feels even more welcoming after a half-day worth of travails. Perhaps the afternoon calls for a bit of lunch, grilled fish, out on the terrace, or a dip in the small infinity pool.

Bungalows are laid out in the same format as they are on Hiva Oa, with bespoke, locally carved wood reliefs inside and out. In addition, the interiors are lovingly adorned with fresh flowers from the surrounding gardens. There's no Wi-Fi in the bungalows, but there is in the main lodge-the result is a faster connection, with fewer users online at any given time.

Breakfasts on the terrace are sumptuous affairs. Eggs are cooked to order and there are a variety of standard hot and cold items, but there are some distinctly Polynesian touches, like house-made papaya jam infused with a whole stick of vanilla to top fresh-baked bread, and understandably perfect sliced mango and papaya to accompany. Dinners in the evenings are similarly sumptuous affairs, beginning with cocktails from the tiki bar and conversation with the engaging staff and moving through an international menu with a healthy selection of vegetarian entrees.

The Takeaway

It's difficult to bid farewell to the hillside retreat, with its views of the mountains and the blue bay dotted with sailboats and yachts, but it's safe to say Nuku Hiva won't easily or soon leave the memories of its visitors.

The Math

Bungalows start at 26,000 CFP (around $250 USD at press time). Breakfast is 2,800 CFP ($27); Half-board (breakfast and dinner) 7,800 CFP ($74) and Full-Board (all meals) 10,000 CFP ($96).

Instagrammable Moment

Views from the lodge are breathtaking, but for the real goods, take the excursion to Hakaui.

Loyalty

None, but that won't keep visitors from wanting to return.

Good To Know

The lodge can arrange transfers to and from the airport and include the charge on the room bill.

There is a free shuttle from the lodge to Taioha'e at intervals throughout the day, plus on request for an additional charge.

Insects can be a nuisance on several of the island's excursions, but the hotel sells a local insect repellent made with Monoi oil that works spectacularly well.

Tipping is not customary in French Polynesia, although tour guides seem to be the exception to this rule-gratuities aren't expected, but appreciated nonetheless.

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