Perfectly Polynesian at Taha'a Resort

Taha’a might just be the idyllic South Seas isle you’ve always pictured, though it’s not easy to get to.

It’s an eight hour flight from Los Angeles to Papeete on Tahiti, and then another 45 minutes (often with another island stop) on a turboprop to the island of Raiatea (Taha’a has no airport), where launches from one of the two resorts on neighboring Taha‘a collect guests and return to their private islands on the coral atoll ringing the island.

During the half hour boat ride, it’s easy to see why Taha’a is worth the journey: coconut palms pervade deep inlets and mountainous coasts, while the island’s single road sees virtually no traffic. With a population of just 5,000, even relatively sleepy Tahiti feels like a metropolis by comparison.

The two resorts comprise fewer than 70 total lodging units, so even at full room capacity visitors won’t find themselves surrounded by much non-local company.

MORE Hotel & Resort

Top Hotel & Resort News From March

Travel Talk: How the ROI of Hotel Business Is Shifting

Secrets Raises the Bar With Secrets Impression Moxché...

Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa is situated on the private islet of Motu Tautau just off the northwest coast of Taha’a. Arriving guests are greeted with fragrant lei made from tiaré tahiti (the local gardenia species) and escorted from the dock into the front office. There they are presented with a vanilla and ginger flavored lemonade and a cold towel while registration is processed.

Then it’s off to one of the secluded bungalow-style accommodations: either overwater or beachfront.

At nearly 1,000 square feet, the thatched roof overwater variety are luxuriously gigantic. A sliding glass French window opens one entire side of the suite fully to an expensive deck with shaded dining area and lounge chairs, plus a lower dock for direct lagoon entry with freshwater shower.

The glass table at the foot of the bed had a view directly under the bungalow, which could be lit during the evening in attempts to attract sea life. The bed itself was adorned with fresh tiaré, giving the entire suite an intoxicating aroma of polished hardwood and floral freshness.

Suites appear to be designed so as to never leave: With fabulous views of Taha’a, or neighboring Bora Bora, the urge to venture out (or indeed even to bother with trivial things like the very passage of time) seems to disappear.

Bathrooms are similarly expansive, with spacious showers, a generous soaker tub (with more glass-topped surfaces for views into the lagoon) and tiaré-scented monoï oil, which has long been used in Polynesia to keep sun-and-wind damaged skin smooth and soft.

For those that do manage to muster the desire and/or energy to leave their gorgeous accommodations, available activities include floating through the island’s coral garden, snorkeling or scuba diving (there is a dive shop on property), relaxing at the resort pool or taking advantage of the open-air treatment rooms at the spa.

For my short visit, I wanted to see the island of Taha’a, and the concierge was able to arrange a day tour that visited a pearl farm and vanilla plantation.

In the morning, it was just a quick trip across the lagoon on the resort’s free shuttle that operates set intervals throughout the day. Then a step up into the canopied bed of a pickup truck for the trip around the island.

Our guide offered commentary in both English and French, and we spent the day visiting various spots:

—Seeing the “baguette boxes” that each resident has set up like mailboxes for their daily deliveries of fresh bread, (which are available on subscription).

—Visiting a pearl farm, where we learned how cultivated pearls are colored and sized by inserting a piece of mother of pearl and a manufactured nucleus into a specific organ of an oyster that is left to grow for over a year.

—Watching how delicate orchid flowers must be pollinated by hand, and then dried into the fragrant, precious beans that become the prized Tahitian vanilla.

—Learning about the general life and livelihood of the island’s residents.

READ MORE: How to See Tahiti for Less

The island was indeed just as secluded as it had looked from the boat; our truck met traffic on the road perhaps once every half hour or so. One brief stop on the side of the road turned into a demonstration on husking and shredding coconut into a fluffy pile, which we were then instructed to dip the end of a banana into for a local-style snack.

I was lucky enough to arrive at the resort on a Tuesday evening when the weekly Polynesian buffet and show is held.

The main restaurant Le Vanille (which offers a superb a la carte menu the rest of the week) offered a buffet of pan-Polynesian favorites while a local band serenaded guests throughout the evening until the Polynesian dancing begins with a small-but-earnest troupe from Taha’a.

Just when one thinks the affair can’t be any more charming, the trio of hostesses from the restaurant ventured outside with broad smiles and do a dance number of their own. The evening ended on the beach with fire dancing and photos. It’s fun and informal—nowhere near as polished as the larger troupes on Tahiti—but without a doubt the most relaxed, organic dance show I’ve seen anywhere in Polynesia.

Le Vanille is also the restaurant that serves a daily breakfast, with an abundance of fresh fruit, perfect breads and pastries—this is an outpost of the French Republic, after all—plus fresh Poisson cru (local raw fish salad made with coconut milk and citrus) and typical North American hot items.

There is also a gastronomic restaurant, Ohiri, for those seeking an elevated multi-course dining experience. Casual lunches can be taken poolside at La Plage, which has both a shaded bar and swim-up bar at the resort pool.

Turndown services each evening include some light reading material on Tahitian legends and a souvenir to remember the resort by on the last evening, along with departure schedules and instructions.

READ MORE: Paul Gauguin Debuts 2018 Tahiti, French Polynesia & South Pacific Brochure

The Takeaway

A Polynesian experience that is worth the journey, offering natural beauty and heartfelt Polynesian hospitality without the crowds and fuss of a more visited island like Bora Bora. Le Taha’a Island Resort and Spa, and the island of Taha’a herself are worth your visit.

The Math

Public rates for overwater suites start around $1,050 per night during the low season; There are frequent free night offers for multi-night stays, and inclusive packages can be a good value.

Instagrammable Moment

Pick one–virtually every view anywhere on the resort is worthy of a social media post—particularly bungalow views and vistas of Taha’a or Bora Bora.

Loyalty

Le Taha’a is part of the Relais & Chateau federation of hotels, which does not operate a loyalty program.

Good to Know

There are no ATMs at the resort, and they are rare on Taha’a. Merchants at tourist facilities selling pearls and vanilla accept credit cards. Otherwise, cash is the general tender on the island, and it’s wise to bring some.

Guest laundry is generally cheaper at the resort than the hotels I stayed at on Tahiti.

If arriving at the airport at Raiatea, round trip boat transfers are required, which are not included in the room rate. The hotel can also arrange a helicopter transfer from Bora Bora if desired.

Accommodations were furnished by Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa in preparation for this story.