Perfectly Polynesian at Taha'a Resort

Taha'a might just be the idyllic South Seas isle you've always pictured, though it's not easy to get to.

It's an eight hour flight from Los Angeles to Papeete on Tahiti, and then another 45 minutes (often with another island stop) on a turboprop to the island of Raiatea (Taha'a has no airport), where launches from one of the two resorts on neighboring Taha'a collect guests and return to their private islands on the coral atoll ringing the island.

During the half hour boat ride, it's easy to see why Taha'a is worth the journey: coconut palms pervade deep inlets and mountainous coasts, while the island's single road sees virtually no traffic. With a population of just 5,000, even relatively sleepy Tahiti feels like a metropolis by comparison.

The two resorts comprise fewer than 70 total lodging units, so even at full room capacity visitors won't find themselves surrounded by much non-local company.

Le Taha'a Island Resort & Spa is situated on the private islet of Motu Tautau just off the northwest coast of Taha'a. Arriving guests are greeted with fragrant lei made from tiaré tahiti (the local gardenia species) and escorted from the dock into the front office. There they are presented with a vanilla and ginger flavored lemonade and a cold towel while registration is processed.

Then it's off to one of the secluded bungalow-style accommodations: either overwater or beachfront.

At nearly 1,000 square feet, the thatched roof overwater variety are luxuriously gigantic. A sliding glass French window opens one entire side of the suite fully to an expensive deck with shaded dining area and lounge chairs, plus a lower dock for direct lagoon entry with freshwater shower.

The glass table at the foot of the bed had a view directly under the bungalow, which could be lit during the evening in attempts to attract sea life. The bed itself was adorned with fresh tiaré, giving the entire suite an intoxicating aroma of polished hardwood and floral freshness.

Suites appear to be designed so as to never leave: With fabulous views of Taha'a, or neighboring Bora Bora, the urge to venture out (or indeed even to bother with trivial things like the very passage of time) seems to disappear.

Bathrooms are similarly expansive, with spacious showers, a generous soaker tub (with more glass-topped surfaces for views into the lagoon) and tiaré-scented monoï oil, which has long been used in Polynesia to keep sun-and-wind damaged skin smooth and soft.

For those that do manage to muster the desire and/or energy to leave their gorgeous accommodations, available activities include floating through the island's coral garden, snorkeling or scuba diving (there is a dive shop on property), relaxing at the resort pool or taking advantage of the open-air treatment rooms at the spa.

For my short visit, I wanted to see the island of Taha'a, and the concierge was able to arrange a day tour that visited a pearl farm and vanilla plantation.

In the morning, it was just a quick trip across the lagoon on the resort's free shuttle that operates set intervals throughout the day. Then a step up into the canopied bed of a pickup truck for the trip around the island.

Our guide offered commentary in both English and French, and we spent the day visiting various spots:

-Seeing the "baguette boxes" that each resident has set up like mailboxes for their daily deliveries of fresh bread, (which are available on subscription).

-Visiting a pearl farm, where we learned how cultivated pearls are colored and sized by inserting a piece of mother of pearl and a manufactured nucleus into a specific organ of an oyster that is left to grow for over a year.

-Watching how delicate orchid flowers must be pollinated by hand, and then dried into the fragrant, precious beans that become the prized Tahitian vanilla.

-Learning about the general life and livelihood of the island's residents.

The Takeaway

A Polynesian experience that is worth the journey, offering natural beauty and heartfelt Polynesian hospitality without the crowds and fuss of a more visited island like Bora Bora. Le Taha'a Island Resort and Spa, and the island of Taha'a herself are worth your visit.

The Math

Public rates for overwater suites start around $1,050 per night during the low season; There are frequent free night offers for multi-night stays, and inclusive packages can be a good value.

Instagrammable Moment

Pick one-virtually every view anywhere on the resort is worthy of a social media post-particularly bungalow views and vistas of Taha'a or Bora Bora.

Loyalty

Le Taha'a is part of the Relais & Chateau federation of hotels, which does not operate a loyalty program.

Good to Know

There are no ATMs at the resort, and they are rare on Taha'a. Merchants at tourist facilities selling pearls and vanilla accept credit cards. Otherwise, cash is the general tender on the island, and it's wise to bring some.

Guest laundry is generally cheaper at the resort than the hotels I stayed at on Tahiti.

If arriving at the airport at Raiatea, round trip boat transfers are required, which are not included in the room rate. The hotel can also arrange a helicopter transfer from Bora Bora if desired.

Accommodations were furnished by Le Taha'a Island Resort & Spa in preparation for this story.

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